tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-80477446576682877692024-03-13T21:39:36.854+01:00Cairo to CapeJaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.comBlogger101125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-10424681854506165302010-05-16T12:22:00.032+02:002010-05-16T19:08:57.247+02:00IT IS OVER!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span class="Apple-style-span"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span class="Apple-style-span">This is it, this will be my last and final posting on this blog, so let me first thank each one of you who have read and followed my African ride. Thank you for the many messages of support and encouragement. I can now tell you that they were times when I seriously considered if it was worth going on riding, feeling sick, tired and at the worst pissing blood. But knowing that you guys were out there following me and cheering for me often gave me that extra courage one needs to ignore the pain signals your body sends you and to keep riding. keeping this blog updated was a challenge I enjoyed tremendously and I tried all along to do it as soon as I would reach camp, sometimes starting to write in my dirty cycling shorts in order to share it with you guys while it was "hot". They were many technical challenges too, especially in Sudan and Ethiopia where access to electricity was just as short as to clean water and Tanzania were I sometimes had to walk a few kilometers with my computer in order to find a weak cell phone signal on top of a hill in order to connect to Internet. Another challenge was to keep all these equipment running in the dust and the heat of the Sudanese desert, the humidity of the equator, the shocks of thousands of km of corrugated roads in the truck, the leaks in my tent in Botswana and so on... Eventually it was gonna be a smart virus that would give me the most trouble and destroy my computer.... Anyway as a token of consolation, my blog won the honorary price of "best TDA 2010 blog", a nice confirmation that our efforts to keep this blog going despite the many challenges have been appreciated.</span><br />
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</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">I have done it, I have made it </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">EFI</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> to Cape Town, 12 000 km on my bicycle without ever getting on the truck or missing a single inch. Out of the 60 who started in Cairo,12 of us have achieved this. It is something, I am particularly really proud of, especially given the fact that I am the oldest </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">EFI</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> of the group and given all the physical troubles I went through, it makes this performance even more enjoyable afterwards. I am also the first French citizen ever to join the </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">EFI</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> club since the creation of the Tour D </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Afrique</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> 8 years ago.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">I am not going to bore you with long and philosophical conclusions about this tour, it is impossible anyway to wrap it up in just a few words, but here are a few impressions I would like to share with you.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Tour d </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Afrique</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> makes you look older but feel younger, it is also very stressful. It is like a 4 months long marathon. You need a holiday after this and a lazy one. Jumping back into a "normal" life is my next challenge. I started immediately yesterday afternoon by throwing away the one and only set of clothes I have been wearing since January and dressed myself from toes to top at one of the waterfront shops.</span><em><span class="Apple-style-span"> </span></em><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="Apple-style-span">I also</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> went for a hair cut and shaved. The images of all the places we went through are now starting to roll in my mind and for the first time this morning I started talking about this race using past verbs.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Africa is an amazing continent, it is poor, disorganised, corrupted, but yet so friendly, so full of delicious surprises and again as I have stressed so often in this blog, people have very little but they still share it. Africa loves singing, Africa loves dancing, Africa lives on the hope of better days and it often gives you the impression that it accepts its faith a bit too easily, "God willing" as you hear so often. Riding across Africa is not easy, there are still plenty of barriers against cyclists: a bicycle is still far too often seen as the method of transport for the poor and African drivers have very little respect for cyclists, making it difficult for us. I had to jump off the road at numerous occasions to save my life. The real danger in A</span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">frica</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> is not the last few free roaming lions or poisonous snakes as many still believe, but simply bad drivers.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">I was forced to witness the rapid expansion of China in the continent, building roads and infrastructures in most places we passed. I was also surprised by the strong influence of South Africa, especially south of the Equator. South African companies are opening retail outlets all over. I am more optimistic about that one than about the Chinese presence...</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Africa did not disappoint me, it scared me, it made me laugh, it gave me joy, it made me dream, it also taught me new things about life and even about myself. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">To conclude, here are a few logistical numbers,</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Number of kilometers ridden on my bike 12 035 (including extra kilometers when getting lost)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Number of punctures: 10 (from which 6 took place the same day in Tanzania)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Total budget for this trip: about 15 000 euro</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Total of bribes paid: 1 (5 dollars to a chef in Malawi to skip the one hour queue at a restaurant and get my T-bone within 5 minutes, it is amazing what an hungry stomach can make you do...)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Weight lost: 10 kg (out of 72) at the worst in Ethiopia. I have now regained most of it</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Number of Cokes (and Pepsi) drunk. estimated 250 to 300</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Most water drunk during one ride: 12 liters (worst day in Sudan)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Fall of my bicycle: only once in </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Dinder</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> park Sudan, not bad for such a long trip.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Stolen things: 0 yes, nothing was stolen from me during this trip! </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Toughest country: Ethiopia</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Most exotic country: Ethiopia</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Best T-bone: Namibia (Felix Unite camp)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Most exotic food: Sudan and Ethiopia</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Highest temperature during a ride: 45 degrees Celsius (Sudan)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Lowest temperature during a ride: 7 degrees Celsius (South Africa, </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Springbok</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span">)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Cheapest meal: Ethiopia (2 dollars including drinks)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Best fruit juices: Ethiopia</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Friendliest people: Malawi</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Biggest danger: Traffic rid</span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">ing</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> into </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" goog-spell-original="airobi"><span class="Apple-style-span">Nairobi</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">The question most asked to us: "Where are you go?" (Every Ethiopian kid)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Longest day: 207 km in Botswana, but longest saddle time was 10 hours in Ethiopia</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Best money ever invested: 50 cents for a bucket of fresh water in Zambia to wash myself</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Most beautiful part of the trip: Tanzania, between </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Arusha</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> and </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Iringa</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span">, 700 km of pure beauty!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
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</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Worst day of the tour: a 130 km long stage in Ethiopia that took us to an altitude of 3100 meters and where I was sick as a dog with fever, stomach bug and bladder infection.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Highlights of the tour. An Ethiopian nurse giving me her lunch in </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Addis</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> and seeing Table mountain appearing in the horizon had both water filling my eyes.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
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</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--vVgAQbsI/AAAAAAAAFfU/dbOpSrmu8Ik/s1600/L1060119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--vVgAQbsI/AAAAAAAAFfU/dbOpSrmu8Ik/s400/L1060119.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">12 000 km on my bicycle and 120 days since I took a similar shot in front of the pyramids...</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--vd7A5MVI/AAAAAAAAFfc/7WL9mGX5OkQ/s1600/L1060129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--vd7A5MVI/AAAAAAAAFfc/7WL9mGX5OkQ/s400/L1060129.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Finally, we are gonna get our lives back..</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--vtzy5o1I/AAAAAAAAFfk/nkVxdJVgjr0/s1600/L1060131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--vtzy5o1I/AAAAAAAAFfk/nkVxdJVgjr0/s400/L1060131.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">The locker 9 club tired but happy...</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--xIZbz3pI/AAAAAAAAFf0/UYML_tztcM4/s1600/L1060154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><img border="0" height="142" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--xIZbz3pI/AAAAAAAAFf0/UYML_tztcM4/s400/L1060154.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Last group photo with the beautiful Table mountain in the </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word"><span class="Apple-style-span">background</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--xSt9MLFI/AAAAAAAAFf8/KtZXx7F8loA/s1600/L1060166.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--xSt9MLFI/AAAAAAAAFf8/KtZXx7F8loA/s400/L1060166.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">The male race winners from left to right, Stuart (1st) Tim (3rd) and Jethro (2nd)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--xd1j5HrI/AAAAAAAAFgE/mBIlDeiYAfs/s1600/L1060172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><img border="0" height="237" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--xd1j5HrI/AAAAAAAAFgE/mBIlDeiYAfs/s400/L1060172.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">The female race winners from left to right Juliana (2nd), </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Gisi</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> (1st) and Jen (3rd)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--x1sl58bI/AAAAAAAAFgM/Khk-cRujzFc/s1600/L1060182.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--x1sl58bI/AAAAAAAAFgM/Khk-cRujzFc/s400/L1060182.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Me passing the finish banner. I bought it for 2100 </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">USD</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> at the found raising auction dinner that evening, adding 21 bicycles to the 120 already donated. I reached a whooping total of 141 bikes, an all time record for the </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">TDA</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> charity...</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br />
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</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--yK3YvjDI/AAAAAAAAFgU/tGfpYCjEgPY/s1600/L1060209.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--yK3YvjDI/AAAAAAAAFgU/tGfpYCjEgPY/s400/L1060209.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span">The official arrival ceremony at the Waterfront included speeches, medals and flag carriers for each country represented. It felt like the Olympics... </span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--ycGwRr1I/AAAAAAAAFgc/_LKRSuZnno4/s1600/L1060217.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--ycGwRr1I/AAAAAAAAFgc/_LKRSuZnno4/s400/L1060217.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span"> Me receiving my </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">EFI</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> medal from the deputy mayor of Cape Town</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--ysXfpRrI/AAAAAAAAFgk/z35P6E_MfYw/s1600/L1060230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--ysXfpRrI/AAAAAAAAFgk/z35P6E_MfYw/s400/L1060230.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span"> Hardy and myself in the VIP tent celebrating our hard earned </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">EFI</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word"><span class="Apple-style-span">medals</span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--2fvFMHQI/AAAAAAAAFgs/ZlCC64Fowow/s1600/L1060236.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><img border="0" height="232" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S--2fvFMHQI/AAAAAAAAFgs/ZlCC64Fowow/s400/L1060236.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span"> The members of the famous locker 9 brotherhood as they look in normal life at the gala dinner party. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"> From left to right, </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Éric</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span">, me, David, Gabriele, </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Jos</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> and </span><span class="goog-spellcheck-word"><span class="Apple-style-span">Peter</span></span>Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-41224115502879778052010-05-13T20:51:00.000+02:002010-05-13T20:51:10.997+02:00GREETINGS FROM SOUTH AFRICAGerald is finally in South Africa, they have had some heavy days with cold and windy weather on the west coast of South Africa...He is fine and only two days to go...His computer does not work any more so he told me this evening on the phone that tommorrow they will have 146km and the arrival day to Cape Town Waterfront about 80km and the last 30km they will ride together... So we all are getting exceited about Saturday...I will go and see him tomorrow at Yzerfontein where they will stay their last night... Thank you for everybody for all the lovely messages... Greetings from windy Cape Town...JaanaJaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-73527206282500025192010-05-09T20:59:00.000+02:002010-05-09T20:59:11.490+02:00I CAN SEE SOUTH AFRICA...I can see it! From my chalet I can see South Africa, on the other side of the mighty Orange river…. <br />
<br />
This time we are now closing in big time to the end of this fabulous adventure… We finally finished the 1000 km dirt section between Windhoek and the Felix Unite camp nested in a magnificent spot along the Orange river on the Namibian side. The Orange river marks the border and we will have to wait another day to cross as we have our last rest day of the tour here at Felix Unite camp. A great place, serving delicious T-bones in the most scenic restaurant overlooking the Orange river gorge. <br />
After spending 9 days crossing the Namibian desert, without any contacts to the world (even cell phones did not work in most places) it is nice to watch South African rugby on a flat screen TV while downing Gin and Tonics at the bar next to the pool… This really feels like a rest day. The vibe is kind of different today from previous rest days. I suppose each one of us realizes by now that this is the end of something you get to live only once in your life and last night as most of us were getting drunk at the bar, we all got very philosophical, talking about our lives and our future projects. There were a few exceptions though, like Rick who got philosophical by stripping and jumping into the pool…<br />
Even the air feels different, it has a cool and slightly humid feel to it just like a European late summer morning while a gentle breeze adds to the melancholic vibe. TDA 2010 is now 6 days from its end and about to enter country number 10, South Africa. Only 800 km are separating us from Cape Town. Last night people were already making phone calls for return flights to their home countries and finalizing travel arrangements in Cape Town. An atmosphere of wrapping up things hangs around camp… Nobody is unhappy about that, as we are all either tired, exhausted or seriously missing families friends and simply home… <br />
It feels a bit like a hangover of adrenaline has already kicked in. It is going to take a while to get back into a normal life again, but I am looking forward not to have to get on my saddle for a while. (and so is my bud). I am also looking forward not to have to live on one bag and having to pack and unpack it each day… The idea to have access to a choice of more than one T- shirt and onepair of trousers to wear is something even I, look forward to as well. <br />
OK, let´s not get carried away here, I still have 800 km to ride to reach my goal, arrive in Cape Town EFI and have ridden “Every Fucking Inch” between Cairo and Cape Town. If nothing goes madly wrong 12 of us will have achieved this. There are no more major difficulties except head winds that can be ferocious in this part of the world. So we will ride in pelotons if that is the case. <br />
Namibia has offered us some of the most fantastic rides of this tour. It has come exactly at the right time as well. The long solitary stretches of riding I have enjoyed here have given me plenty of time to reflect about this adventure, about myself, about life in general. It has been a relief to my soul after the busy sections like Ethiopia and Malawi to be able to spend hours alone without seeing a single human being without the disturbance of any sound. I feel relaxed and recharged after Namibia, despite the hard riding on the dirt. It is amazing how much being mentally relaxed can help your general physical performance. One of the many things this trip has taught me, it is the incredible interaction between your mental well being and your physical aptitude.<br />
South Africa is my second home as I have lived here almost 10 years and I am looking forward to cross the border. The small isolated town of Springbok will be our first stop there. Having no more computer has made the updating of this blog a bit challenging, but I will try to keep you guys posted as we head south!<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cB_78ccGI/AAAAAAAAFcc/D-dWmXJbDWQ/s1600/gerald+095+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cB_78ccGI/AAAAAAAAFcc/D-dWmXJbDWQ/s400/gerald+095+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> In the middle of the Namibian desert, I came across this farm plate<br />
address which also happens to be my race number… 113…<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cCNr6uLgI/AAAAAAAAFck/0iMnSAlvDFE/s1600/gerald+096+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cCNr6uLgI/AAAAAAAAFck/0iMnSAlvDFE/s400/gerald+096+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Some of the riding here can feel a bit long with endless stretches <br />
of straight dirt roads under intense heat and wind<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cCbLUu0zI/AAAAAAAAFcs/V9itfOa8AnQ/s1600/gerald+099+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cCbLUu0zI/AAAAAAAAFcs/V9itfOa8AnQ/s400/gerald+099+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Namibia is full of surprises. In the middle of the desert, we found<br />
this amazing road house which served the best cheese cakes <br />
I have had in a long time. What a cool place!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cCuxizU9I/AAAAAAAAFc0/MLMRuKJIxYM/s1600/gerald+107+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cCuxizU9I/AAAAAAAAFc0/MLMRuKJIxYM/s400/gerald+107+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Inside the road house, a really cool deco as well<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cC6Ke5BKI/AAAAAAAAFc8/aY6NT2e7tZE/s1600/gerald+111+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cC6Ke5BKI/AAAAAAAAFc8/aY6NT2e7tZE/s400/gerald+111+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cDFg_DALI/AAAAAAAAFdE/Fj8FlOdKcFA/s1600/gerald+116+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cDFg_DALI/AAAAAAAAFdE/Fj8FlOdKcFA/s400/gerald+116+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The Fish River Canyon is the second biggest in the world after <br />
the Grand Canyon. It is 160 km long. What a site!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cDV0qbtCI/AAAAAAAAFdM/FnCE_a9xWsE/s1600/gerald+114+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cDV0qbtCI/AAAAAAAAFdM/FnCE_a9xWsE/s400/gerald+114+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> You feel very small at the edge of the canyon…<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cDgbq8taI/AAAAAAAAFdU/eS0rvRREupI/s1600/gerald+129+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cDgbq8taI/AAAAAAAAFdU/eS0rvRREupI/s400/gerald+129+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> On the road again for another monster day…. 176 km today, but <br />
the target is exiting, tonight be will be at the South African border!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cDub8ddXI/AAAAAAAAFdc/vf5-YfeWqwc/s1600/gerald+131+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cDub8ddXI/AAAAAAAAFdc/vf5-YfeWqwc/s400/gerald+131+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Gabriele is back in pink fashion<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cD9Lb1YII/AAAAAAAAFdk/Ai6xsLJo11A/s1600/gerald+135+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cD9Lb1YII/AAAAAAAAFdk/Ai6xsLJo11A/s400/gerald+135+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cEFkgpQ4I/AAAAAAAAFds/f4ywxa8Nlw4/s1600/gerald+139+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cEFkgpQ4I/AAAAAAAAFds/f4ywxa8Nlw4/s320/gerald+139+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" /></a></div> Namibian vegetation is so different from any other place we have crossed<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cEQ5uOckI/AAAAAAAAFd0/zwP_UKDQKgU/s1600/gerald+152+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cEQ5uOckI/AAAAAAAAFd0/zwP_UKDQKgU/s400/gerald+152+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> You feel very small when you ride alone on these beautiful but<br />
endless Namibian dirt roads<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cEfjLJtqI/AAAAAAAAFd8/UU1wkf7-zA8/s1600/gerald+165+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cEfjLJtqI/AAAAAAAAFd8/UU1wkf7-zA8/s400/gerald+165+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cEn7-ZERI/AAAAAAAAFeE/gIl9okSUeYc/s1600/gerald+170+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cEn7-ZERI/AAAAAAAAFeE/gIl9okSUeYc/s400/gerald+170+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> We did a fair bit of climbing in this last mando day of the tour,<br />
but what a nice ride!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cE2aZ2kxI/AAAAAAAAFeM/aB9pECI8hPc/s1600/gerald+173+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cE2aZ2kxI/AAAAAAAAFeM/aB9pECI8hPc/s400/gerald+173+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Marcel having yet another puncture, I told him that this could be his<br />
last one of the tour, so I decided to document it…<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cFH5KKovI/AAAAAAAAFeU/qJ7YyQi7TT0/s1600/gerald+187+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cFH5KKovI/AAAAAAAAFeU/qJ7YyQi7TT0/s400/gerald+187+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The restaurant at Felix Unite<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cFTW5uf0I/AAAAAAAAFec/2X_VWtzc4ZA/s1600/gerald+188+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cFTW5uf0I/AAAAAAAAFec/2X_VWtzc4ZA/s400/gerald+188+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The chalets at Felix Unite are facing the Orange river.<br />
On the other side….South Africa! But we will have to<br />
wait another day to get there as we will have a <br />
(well deserved) rest day in Felix Unite camp site<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cFnBz8JjI/AAAAAAAAFek/qAm73pPPXEg/s1600/gerald+191+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-cFnBz8JjI/AAAAAAAAFek/qAm73pPPXEg/s400/gerald+191+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> For the ultimate time, we are changing our tires. <br />
The last 800 km are almost all on tarred, so we <br />
switch back to slicks… here, David, Laura and <br />
Gabriele at workJaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-6821980826618567592010-05-06T20:10:00.000+02:002010-05-06T20:10:01.336+02:00RIDING IN NAMIBIA...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
I have seen more German tourists than Namibians over the past 5 riding days…. Namibia is so empty, it feels really strange riding hour after hour through such emptiness only crossing some flashy 4 x 4s with German tourists waiving frantically at us…<br />
<br />
On a bicycle you really have time to appreciate how vast and how empty this country is. It is a great experience and I have to say, I am loving it. After super populated Ethiopia and Malawi, Namibia offers a brake to the soul and leaves you with a sensation of calm and peace. <br />
Namibian beauty can be appreciated only if you have time to stop, put your bike down and sit on side of the dirt road. There is plenty of life here, insects, lizards, birds but also plenty of big game like Orix , Ostriches, Springboks etc, etc… when you stop for a few minutes and look at what is surrounding you, it feels like you have been reduced in size, even the perfect blue sky looks bigger… Oh, yeah… I forgot to mention that we have had good weather now for 3 days and the sun is back…<br />
We have done big days riding 410 km on dirt in 3 days…. Hard but nice and nobody was complaining as the beauty of the landscapes we were passing matched the technical challenges of mastering sand pitches and rolling gravels…<br />
One thing has changed though, since the return of clear skies, it has been freezing at nights. We are now back where we started. It is even colder than in the Sahara… We have to ride out of camp geared with warm cycling clothes and have to stop 2 hours later to strip them off as the temperature soars.<br />
So, here we are with only 8 riding days left and exactly 1000 km to go, the great countdown has now started. In 2 days we will be at the South African border where we will enjoy the last rest day of this amazing adventure. To get there we are going to ride along the Fish River inside the famous Fish River canyon which is only second in size to the Grand Canyon… so guys, stay tuned as they say on CNN and expect some amazing shots to come!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MCmi3W_yI/AAAAAAAAFU8/xh2ypw-ZL70/s1600/L1050952+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MCmi3W_yI/AAAAAAAAFU8/xh2ypw-ZL70/s400/L1050952+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> David anxious to have his gears fixed <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MC1xKa-vI/AAAAAAAAFVE/meC__ojsyOY/s1600/L1050863+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MC1xKa-vI/AAAAAAAAFVE/meC__ojsyOY/s400/L1050863+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> On board the small Cessna we hired<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MDD5p8_2I/AAAAAAAAFVM/ZNO1QZShGkI/s1600/L1050865+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MDD5p8_2I/AAAAAAAAFVM/ZNO1QZShGkI/s400/L1050865+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The mountains take a different look from the air<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MDRmteg6I/AAAAAAAAFVU/nmKKpiBX2Ao/s1600/L1050885+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MDRmteg6I/AAAAAAAAFVU/nmKKpiBX2Ao/s400/L1050885+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The famous dune 45<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MDh90tDPI/AAAAAAAAFVc/G7VAJyEgP7M/s1600/L1050888+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MDh90tDPI/AAAAAAAAFVc/G7VAJyEgP7M/s400/L1050888+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Endless dunes<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MDtS5z5wI/AAAAAAAAFVk/uZQoU8jebus/s1600/L1050892+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MDtS5z5wI/AAAAAAAAFVk/uZQoU8jebus/s400/L1050892+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The Atlantic Ocean <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MD5JOPH9I/AAAAAAAAFVs/xb2k_r2Fzgw/s1600/L1050911+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MD5JOPH9I/AAAAAAAAFVs/xb2k_r2Fzgw/s400/L1050911+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> From left to right, Jos, David, me, Gabrielle and Eric<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MEO4Zto4I/AAAAAAAAFV0/e7ZvQVpK8z4/s1600/L1050918+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MEO4Zto4I/AAAAAAAAFV0/e7ZvQVpK8z4/s400/L1050918+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Riding on Namibian dirt roads is tough but so pleasant<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MEaXxYj9I/AAAAAAAAFV8/_U4jbFb7-oE/s1600/L1050921+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MEaXxYj9I/AAAAAAAAFV8/_U4jbFb7-oE/s400/L1050921+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Ruben, Jason and Paddy<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MEmRPr3PI/AAAAAAAAFWE/atS5ssgEoGw/s1600/L1050924+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MEmRPr3PI/AAAAAAAAFWE/atS5ssgEoGw/s400/L1050924+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a><br />
We cover huge distances each day on these gravel roads (up to 173 km)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-ME1DT0FOI/AAAAAAAAFWM/v3fD4UzUAwY/s1600/L1050931+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-ME1DT0FOI/AAAAAAAAFWM/v3fD4UzUAwY/s400/L1050931+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> It is freezing cold in the mornings here and riders are using warm <br />
clothing for the first hours of the ride, some are quite exotic like this one from Dave…<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MFJI72S1I/AAAAAAAAFWU/A9q7mxC2WIk/s1600/L1050948+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S-MFJI72S1I/AAAAAAAAFWU/A9q7mxC2WIk/s400/L1050948+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Tonight we sleep in the middle of nowhere again in a place called <br />
Seeheim, and this is it... Seeheim is just a few houses and a train<br />
station…. The big house is the Seeheim hotelJaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-48822743003780088872010-05-03T17:46:00.000+02:002010-05-03T17:46:02.700+02:00ARTICLE ON CANADIAN CLOBE AND MAILHave look, there is a nice article about the Tour d'Afrique on the Canadian news paper called Clobe & Mail...<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/travel/across-africa-by-bike/article1552488/">http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/travel/across-africa-by-bike/article1552488/</a>Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-58106259140057185702010-05-03T15:42:00.001+02:002010-05-03T17:39:49.517+02:00TOUGH RIDES IN NAMIBIA...Namibia is normally hot and dry at this time of the year, but for the<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">70 TDA riders who have battled cold headwinds and heavy rains since we</div>left Windhoek it has been a bit of a shock. Namibia is tougher than I<br />
expected. We are doing the longest section on dirt of the tour with<br />
almost 1000 km of uninterrupted gravel roads. Namibia is not flat<br />
either, so when you mix, rain, sand and headwind on steep up hills,<br />
the cycling gets pretty hard… To make things even more challenging,<br />
the tour organization has planned very long sections here with riding<br />
days up to 173 km long. Such distances on tarred are already painful,<br />
but on dirt, they turn into something close to masochism….<br />
But we have plenty to look forward, firstly this is some of the most<br />
exotic and surreal cycling landscapes I have ever traversed, secondly,<br />
Cape Town is now really close… As I am writing this, we have 11<br />
riding days left and about 1500 km to go. (half on dirt)<br />
Namibian landscapes are so unique and so different from what we have<br />
seen over this long journey. Even if the cycling is tough, it is with<br />
a sense of excitement that most of us are feeling as we get on our<br />
bikes at the early hours of the morning. The morning light on these<br />
colorful desert backgrounds is just magic. I have never seen so many<br />
riders stopping for taking pictures, even the racers in front have now<br />
understood how privileged we are to cross such places on a bicycle and<br />
many of them were stopping for pictures yesterday.<br />
The thunderstorms we went through over the past 3 days added some<br />
dramatic dark blue colors to the sky making the whole landscape even<br />
more dramatic. I must have spent more than 2 hours taking pictures<br />
yesterday alone.<br />
The clear skies have returned to compliment our rest day in Sesriem ,<br />
a tiny place that reminds me of the “Bagdad café” movie. One petrol<br />
station, one camping and a lodge in the middle of the desert. A<br />
beautiful and calm little oasis lost between the red sand dunes and<br />
the mountains. The visitors are mostly South African and German<br />
tourists equipped to the teeth with flashy 4x4 vehicles. We don’t<br />
really fit into that category of people and I find it hard to<br />
communicate with these very pale and fat people. I have cycled over 10<br />
000 km to get here and I simply cannot identify myself with a tourist<br />
that has flown to Johannesburg and rented a 4 wheel drive car there. I<br />
just feel that an entire world is separating me from these people.<br />
They also seem a bit scared about this big loud group of cyclists and<br />
only a few of them are actually making an effort to ask us some<br />
questions about our trip.<br />
Here is a first warning about things to come, in less than 2 weeks we<br />
are all going back to our normal lives and some of it already scares<br />
me a bit. How do you explain what we have just lived, how do you ever<br />
look at overloaded supermarket shelves again without having a thought<br />
at how we struggled to get hold of simple products like toilet paper<br />
or toothpaste. How will it feel to see people eating twice what their<br />
daily food requirement is when our obsession has been to match our own<br />
calories deficit for the past 4 months? What do you respond to the<br />
“How was it?” question????.....<br />
On the other hand, I am really looking forward for not digging a hole<br />
in the ground to have a crap and packing up my wet tent in the dark at<br />
5 h00 am. I only have to pack my stupid locker 11 more times and that<br />
is definitely something to look forward to. This locker queuing and<br />
packing is one of the most irritating part of this trip. I hate it and<br />
so does every rider…<br />
My computer has been infected with a virus. This has resulted in a lot<br />
of complications for me, especially for keeping this blog running. I<br />
have helped so many people with Internet connection, lending my<br />
computer. Unfortunately, somebody has managed to infect it with a USB<br />
stick. Luckily, just about each TDA rider started the tour with one<br />
working laptop. By now, many have been either stolen or have broken<br />
down due to the horrific conditions we have gone through, from heat,<br />
sand and dust to humidity and plenty of physical abuse especially when<br />
the trucks went over corrugated roads for hundreds and hundreds of<br />
km's. David’s computer has survived every above mentioned threat so<br />
far, and that’s where from I am now doing this update.<br />
The next 5 days are seriously hard and all efforts are going to be<br />
needed to remain EFI. Namibia is an easy place to lose EFI. The gravel<br />
roads are in good condition, so you tend to ride relatively fast, but<br />
there are many things to watch for. Most dips have thick soft sand in<br />
which it is easy to make a mistake and fall. One bad wipe is enough to<br />
hurt yourself and it is therefore important to remain focused until<br />
the end. On such long days, with the fatigue adding to the routine you<br />
tend to make more mistakes as you are nearing the end of your riding<br />
stage.<br />
I am not sure about when I will be doing the next posting, but most<br />
likely from the South African border where we will be enjoying the<br />
last rest day of this tour on May 9.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97SCzhvEMI/AAAAAAAAFP8/sahw6bfQFTI/s1600/gerald+163b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97SCzhvEMI/AAAAAAAAFP8/sahw6bfQFTI/s400/gerald+163b.jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> David and I with a dramatic sky at the back. We are heading for it...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97SOzluPMI/AAAAAAAAFQE/DgR0XsIisO8/s1600/gerald+176b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97SOzluPMI/AAAAAAAAFQE/DgR0XsIisO8/s400/gerald+176b.jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97SargedDI/AAAAAAAAFQM/vKXwo_zRP4E/s1600/gerald+197b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97SargedDI/AAAAAAAAFQM/vKXwo_zRP4E/s400/gerald+197b.jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Who said Namibia was flat?<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97SrDLJbVI/AAAAAAAAFQU/5PCS1-b6_Bo/s1600/gerald+256b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97SrDLJbVI/AAAAAAAAFQU/5PCS1-b6_Bo/s400/gerald+256b.jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97tmx_R6eI/AAAAAAAAFSE/NuW2imSJeak/s1600/gerald+311b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97tmx_R6eI/AAAAAAAAFSE/NuW2imSJeak/s400/gerald+311b.jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97tv9FpkGI/AAAAAAAAFSM/ZpB-0WXy-30/s1600/gerald+309b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97tv9FpkGI/AAAAAAAAFSM/ZpB-0WXy-30/s400/gerald+309b.jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97t6CSMlsI/AAAAAAAAFSU/zNUydrny1MM/s1600/gerald+297b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97t6CSMlsI/AAAAAAAAFSU/zNUydrny1MM/s400/gerald+297b.jpg" tt="true" width="225" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97uEdFp2GI/AAAAAAAAFSc/YGKHkjIZq-U/s1600/gerald+265b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97uEdFp2GI/AAAAAAAAFSc/YGKHkjIZq-U/s400/gerald+265b.jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97uLaABzGI/AAAAAAAAFSk/Pp-lQR0IM4Y/s1600/gerald+258b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97uLaABzGI/AAAAAAAAFSk/Pp-lQR0IM4Y/s400/gerald+258b.jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div>Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-30204458100864246492010-05-03T15:20:00.000+02:002010-05-03T15:20:27.756+02:00FINALLY IN WINDHOEKThis posting was suppose to be before the previous one, but due to some funny and not so funny problems with Jaana's computer everything were lost for a while... So we are happily back online with full of photos again...<br />
<br />
<br />
We all arrived safely and exhausted in the Namibian capital after a very long last day of the Vic Falls to Windhoek stage. Nobody expected this day to be so hard, and the reason was... very strong headwind... Headwind is the nightmare of cyclists, and on a straight 160 km long stretch of road it can make a ride miserable. Furthermore we had some good hills climbing into the capital. Windhoek is situated at an altitude of 1600 meters and surrounded by mountains 2400 m high. So there was no other way than climb over a 1900 meter pass before heading down to the city. The wind reduced our speed to ridiculous average below 20 km per hour adding saddle time to our tired legs and bruised bums. This road was straight just like the rest of that 1700 km long section. Straight, straight and straighter, the odd curves are only a few degrees and rare... So once you are in a headwind, you stay in that headwind for the whole day without getting any brakes... This entire section has been very leg consuming. It is the first time I finish a section so exhausted. The cycling has been fast (except for today) and highly intensive. There were no coke stops, no stops in general as we just traversed empty land filled with thick bush resulting in long and uninterrupted high cadence cycling sessions, day after day. Our legs are now completely finished and this rest day is more than a blessing.... The bad weather also added a difficulty factor as we faced rain, storms and lightening 12 days out of the 14 of that section. Most tents were flooded and the storms we had at camps every night reduced our recovery time as you battle against the leaks in your tent instead of sleeping.<br />
<br />
Everybody arrived at the finish line looking completely empty of any energy. But as you know by now, at TDA, once you reach camp, you still have plenty to do. In this particular case, we had to change our tires back to knoblies as we are going to go back on dirt roads after the rest day. I also changed my chain and my cassette. If you put on a new cassette, you need to start up with a new chain as well. So I wanted to have my bike ready for action and not spend any of my rest day time doing bike mechanics. This meant that it was quite late when I finally got to my hotel and enjoy access to all modern facilities such as a flush toilet and a shower... The good news was that Jaana had flown from Johannesburg to meet me for the rest day in Windhoek. It was only 2 weeks since Victoria falls when we last rejoined after being 13 weeks apart, but it felt like a long time ago. We live at such a high cadence at TDA that time is overtaken by the packed adrenaline action we go through every second of this trip. I wonder what will happen once we reach the end of this tour, how will each participant adjust to "normal life" again... At the moment, I am certainly feeling like an adrenaline junkie...<br />
The end... Yeah, well it's never been so close now and yet plenty of adventures to come over the last 14 riding days. We are still going to cross Namibia from north to south on exiting dirt roads, going through natural wonders such as the Fish River Canyon, second deepest in the world after the grand canyon. But time wise, the big countdown has started... 2 weeks left and we will be in Cape Town!!! Wao... Table mountain is on the horizon... When I was looking at my map of Africa last night, it suddenly hit me, we are now really close. Of course for the sectional riders joining us for this last leg of the trip, it is an enormous challenge and they seemed pretty tensed about this "big journey" they are just joining... I spoke with a few of them last night and they were just as nervous as we were in Cairo... he he... and we, coming from Cairo feel "almost home"...<br />
Well, at TDA one must never underestimate the task, each day can turn into something very physically and mentally challenging. There are 14 stages left and personally I intend to remain focused until the finish line in Cape Town. On a bicycle, just a simple fall can mean the end of your race. It is important not make a mistake, especially that far into the race. It would be a real pity to lose my EFI status now after all what I have gone through to stay EFI. One wipe and I could lose it, so the pressure is definitely on. My task is now to finish this race EFI. I am happy to say that despite being very tired, I feel very strong on the bike and my legs are definitely gonna take me to Cape Town. I have also finally started to pick up some weight now that I have access to more and better food. <br />
I am looking forward getting back on dirt roads, it is where I am the strongest and enjoy my riding the most. The coming 900 km is gonna be pure dirt, so I should be satisfied with that. The landscapes of the Namibian desert are absolutely magnificent, so expect some cool pictures to be posted over the next days!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97Ldi3n0bI/AAAAAAAAFPM/hrWUdl9sSFM/s1600/NAMIBIA+042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97Ldi3n0bI/AAAAAAAAFPM/hrWUdl9sSFM/s400/NAMIBIA+042.JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The truck is already there waiting for riders to arrive at the camping side<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97Ly10LWHI/AAAAAAAAFPU/OW2niO31-D0/s1600/NAMIBIA+044.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97Ly10LWHI/AAAAAAAAFPU/OW2niO31-D0/s400/NAMIBIA+044.JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Gerald is tired but happy to meet me and now he just need to <br />
do the maintenance for his bike before going to a warm shower in a nice hotel<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97MPQ3jjjI/AAAAAAAAFPc/BmIJEEsyEhc/s1600/NAMIBIA+062.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97MPQ3jjjI/AAAAAAAAFPc/BmIJEEsyEhc/s400/NAMIBIA+062.JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> everybody's tyres <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97MpSekBbI/AAAAAAAAFPk/b0NKidgRdjA/s1600/NAMIBIA+050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97MpSekBbI/AAAAAAAAFPk/b0NKidgRdjA/s400/NAMIBIA+050.JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The photo talk for it self<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97NADzMiXI/AAAAAAAAFPs/qKe7ZJsTMQs/s1600/NAMIBIA+059.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97NADzMiXI/AAAAAAAAFPs/qKe7ZJsTMQs/s400/NAMIBIA+059.JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Eric helping Gerald with his chain...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97NTTIvshI/AAAAAAAAFP0/1YHkrbpJkfk/s1600/NAMIBIA+065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S97NTTIvshI/AAAAAAAAFP0/1YHkrbpJkfk/s400/NAMIBIA+065.JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> After a shower a draft beer in the hotel...mmmmm.....Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-5492071042458677112010-05-02T17:33:00.000+02:002010-05-02T17:33:19.572+02:00NAMIBIAThere was a sense of excitement this morning as we left Windhoek. We were starting the eight and last section of this gigantic adventure across Africa. At the end of this section.... Cape Town..... But before we get to see Table mountain, we need to sweat a bit more... And sweating we did today.... Namibia reminded us that we are now back in dryer and warmer territory, but what a difference from Botswana! We got on dirt just a few kilometers after leaving the capital and started climbing right away on a curvy sandy road surrounded by dry bushes and beautiful mountains in the background. We climbed to a 2050 m pass before riding rolling hills and long straight stretches of dirt road filled with gravel and patches of soft sand. <br />
<br />
<br />
Dirt roads in Namibia are in a much better shape than anywhere we have been previously on this trip. Here they maintain the gravel roads and grade them regularly, so they are actually relatively easy compared to the one we experienced in Southern Sudan or Northern, Kenya and Tanzania. <br />
The difficulties today did not come from the road but from my bike... I changed my chain in a hurry on arrival in Windhoek and did not notice that I put a chain for an 8 speed bike. My cassette has 9 speed which means that the size of the chain is a tiny bit narrower than on a 8 speed bike. As we left Windhoek, I noticed that my gears did not shift properly. A few kilometers further, they started to shift by themselves and eventually, I could only use one gear at the back. This meant that my only way to tackle the climbs today was to use the front derailleur and to stand up when it got too steep.... This is OK for a few kilometers, but we had 115 km to go and plenty of climbs including a serious pass. <br />
Eventually, about 10 km after lunch my chain broke. I carry quick links for such incidents, but unfortunately they were too narrow for this chain, so we had to go for plan B. Eric helped me to fix the chain by using the chain itself. For this, you have to brake another link and force the pin back into position once you join the two parts of a now shorter chain. After two unsuccessful attempts we managed to fix it and I could ride to the finish. <br />
This did not fix my gear shifting problems though and all I could do was to stand on my legs and push harder when climbing. As problems usually come in series, Jos had a flat and a strong headwind picked up during the last 30 km of the stage. All these delays resulted in us cycling through the hottest part of the day and we were a bunch of unhappy cyclists when we finally reached the camp site. <br />
Luckily, the campsite was really nice combined with a lodge, it was well stocked with cold beers and we even had rooms booked by Tony who was sick today and got here early using the dinner truck.<br />
Having a room instead of putting up your tent makes such a difference, especially after a long day like this. You can get straight to the shower and relax on the bed just minutes after finishing your cycling day, rather than having to get to the truck, pick up your camping gears, walk with you tents and other necessary equipment to a remote corner of the camp and having to clear the ground, look for shade, avoid the ants and so on.... Instead within minutes, you are fresh, clean and can enjoy a cold beer. So you can imagine that there is a big rush at each TDA camp site to get to book rooms where there are some available. Each rider is trying to use a faster rider connection to book a room for him or her, so your best bet is either to find out where we are going next and book by phone in advance or to ask somebody on the truck to book a room for you. But as we progress further in this tour, more and more riders know the tricks so it is really getting harder and harder to get rooms anywhere we go. By now, everybody is so fed up with camping that the room competition is almost harder than the riding itself...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92Xy2LP6vI/AAAAAAAAFMM/0jYH6aQeqGc/s1600/Copie+de+Namibia+030+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92Xy2LP6vI/AAAAAAAAFMM/0jYH6aQeqGc/s400/Copie+de+Namibia+030+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Eric managed to fix my broken chain after a few attemps.<br />
I managed to reach camp with this fix and put a new chain on. <br />
This time I made sure I had the right size...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92YC2OvH-I/AAAAAAAAFMU/0ErcMCVtW0c/s1600/Copie+de+Namibia+029+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92YC2OvH-I/AAAAAAAAFMU/0ErcMCVtW0c/s400/Copie+de+Namibia+029+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Lunch in a beautiful setting, it felt like a Sunday picnic... <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92YSyX0kcI/AAAAAAAAFMc/c8THvASZS2I/s1600/Copie+de+Namibia+028+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92YSyX0kcI/AAAAAAAAFMc/c8THvASZS2I/s400/Copie+de+Namibia+028+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Road signs.... We are definitely back in civilsation<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92YeCoMl4I/AAAAAAAAFMk/MlccfvRlDtU/s1600/Copie+de+Namibia+027+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92YeCoMl4I/AAAAAAAAFMk/MlccfvRlDtU/s400/Copie+de+Namibia+027+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a><br />
The lunch truck waiting for hungry cyclists<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92YrKsvDTI/AAAAAAAAFMs/2ibt3RgIEI4/s1600/Copie+de+Namibia+024+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92YrKsvDTI/AAAAAAAAFMs/2ibt3RgIEI4/s400/Copie+de+Namibia+024+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Beautiful Namibia<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92Y5zeLSZI/AAAAAAAAFM0/2vPfjDvms9A/s1600/Copie+de+Namibia+020+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92Y5zeLSZI/AAAAAAAAFM0/2vPfjDvms9A/s400/Copie+de+Namibia+020+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Katja<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92ZEMC6WvI/AAAAAAAAFM8/4Z2rYLURBZc/s1600/Copie+de+Namibia+019+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92ZEMC6WvI/AAAAAAAAFM8/4Z2rYLURBZc/s400/Copie+de+Namibia+019+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Aren<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92ZQ8uXdAI/AAAAAAAAFNE/qBECEP1zRJc/s1600/Copie+de+Namibia+017+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92ZQ8uXdAI/AAAAAAAAFNE/qBECEP1zRJc/s400/Copie+de+Namibia+017+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Namibia has 2 habitants per square kilometer, <br />
so here is what it means in real life....<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92Ze0DGhLI/AAAAAAAAFNM/uhhrHKwLuQs/s1600/Copie+de+Namibia+015+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92Ze0DGhLI/AAAAAAAAFNM/uhhrHKwLuQs/s400/Copie+de+Namibia+015+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92ZqwoJxVI/AAAAAAAAFNU/PL2XT37AMw0/s1600/Copie+de+Namibia+009+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92ZqwoJxVI/AAAAAAAAFNU/PL2XT37AMw0/s400/Copie+de+Namibia+009+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Endless empty fields with beautiful mountains in <br />
the background, that is Namibia...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92Z4xDjDlI/AAAAAAAAFNc/shr5l6a9Pi0/s1600/Copie+de+Namibia+004+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92Z4xDjDlI/AAAAAAAAFNc/shr5l6a9Pi0/s400/Copie+de+Namibia+004+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> I had to take two photos as the riders were already too far appart.<br />
Two more of the 12 posing at the 10 000 km with me: Simon and Frans <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92aRB5wONI/AAAAAAAAFNk/4j_SOhaTvEk/s1600/Copie+de+Namibia+003+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92aRB5wONI/AAAAAAAAFNk/4j_SOhaTvEk/s400/Copie+de+Namibia+003+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> We enjoyed beeing back on dirt with some windy roads<br />
after riding 2 weeks in straight and flat Botswana<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92ag-YneNI/AAAAAAAAFNs/sBbhJnKNouc/s1600/Copie+de+Namibia+001+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92ag-YneNI/AAAAAAAAFNs/sBbhJnKNouc/s400/Copie+de+Namibia+001+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div>12 TDA participants have managed to ride Every Inch since Cairo to this point where we pass 10 000 km.... Here are 7 of them, from left to right Sunhil, Hardy, me, Rod, Stuart, Juliana and Dan. The 3 missing for the photo are Gizi Jason and Jethro who are also EFI. Frans ans Simon came a bit later and we did a separate photo<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92a3P0IaDI/AAAAAAAAFN0/1uP1-uPKSXk/s1600/Namibia+034+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92a3P0IaDI/AAAAAAAAFN0/1uP1-uPKSXk/s400/Namibia+034+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92a-Vzkl9I/AAAAAAAAFN8/OcHw9HV8U3w/s1600/Namibia+037+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S92a-Vzkl9I/AAAAAAAAFN8/OcHw9HV8U3w/s400/Namibia+037+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Beautiful Namibia...Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-30513305007702464722010-04-27T08:57:00.001+02:002010-05-02T17:35:14.266+02:00RISOTTO AND RAIN...I am not inspired by Botswana. There is very little to report on, except that we are all bored out of our minds and that our legs are sore from the long distances we are now doing each day. To add to the morosity, we have had awful weather conditions ever since we entered Botswana. I can't remember seeing so much rain in my life. It has been pouring with rain days and nights. Thunderstorm after thunderstorm. Needless to mention that our tents are all soaking wet, that our clothes are soaking wet, that the trucks and lockers are full of mud and that everybody is pretty much pissed off with camping. Camping is not fun in such conditions, but it is even worst after long riding days when you are smelly, tired and would pay anything to access a hot shower.... Instead, you get to pitch your tent under the rain in a muddy field.... Sleeping inside this leaking and smelly piece of fabric is getting on every rider's nerves. By now, most tents have been put up and down so many times that they are not completely waterproof any more. Oh, and did I mention that it is freezing cold? Yes, 2 weeks ago we couldn't sleep because it was so hot, and now it is full scale winter here. This weather is not nice, believe me. <br />
<br />
<br />
So we fight back in whatever way we can. To lift up the spirits, Gabriele decided to cook a risotto for the whole camp. Jos and I offered our help as assistants and we managed to produce a very good risotto for 80 people in the middle of the Botswana bush with basic cooking equipment. We also had some great locker 9 gatherings between rain showers and enjoyed some magnificent Swiss Italian salamis, home produced by the family of Tsiciano, Gabriele's brothers friend who joined us at Vic Falls for this section. I must add that the 36 months matured parmesan cheese he and Ricardo brought along with the salamis was the culinary highlight of this trip!<br />
<br />
Today was stage 79 and a feared one as it was the longest of the tour, a mere 209 km. It went much better than we had all expected. If it had not been for the rain and some head wind towards the end of the stage, we would have clocked in record averages. By now, we are used to long distances. This was actually easy since there was no climbing. The legs are a bit stiff, but that is because we have done so many kilometers over the last 8 riding days (about 1200 km). If nothing else, we are definitely building powerful legs... The good news is that we are finally done with Botswana and have just entered Namibia this afternoon. We are now 2 riding days away from Windhoek where we will be given a 24 hour break to rest those tired legs. Before that, 2 more big stages to cover the 300 km that separate us from the capital.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aFxptxbHI/AAAAAAAAFJg/TjBBDgR4BbM/s1600/Botswana+182+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aFxptxbHI/AAAAAAAAFJg/TjBBDgR4BbM/s400/Botswana+182+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Entering our 9th country, Namibia<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aF-ByvjrI/AAAAAAAAFJo/8x0KtwSmYWw/s1600/Botswana+180+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aF-ByvjrI/AAAAAAAAFJo/8x0KtwSmYWw/s400/Botswana+180+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Huge thunderstorms have been making our cycling (and camping) life<br />
miserable over the past few days. This was the sky we faced today<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aGPAMwnRI/AAAAAAAAFJw/wIQ-WBx8rY4/s1600/Botswana+179+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aGPAMwnRI/AAAAAAAAFJw/wIQ-WBx8rY4/s400/Botswana+179+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Finally we reach the Namibian border post after the longest <br />
day of the tour, 209 km<br />
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aGfUwkmyI/AAAAAAAAFJ4/kb6kW2DZ0KE/s1600/Botswana+174+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aGfUwkmyI/AAAAAAAAFJ4/kb6kW2DZ0KE/s400/Botswana+174+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a><br />
Tony and Simon at a rare coke stop in Botswana in a typical<br />
one horse town where we managed to buy some cold drinks<br />
from a shebeen (illegal home bar). This drunk local kept on <br />
telling us he had also done Cairo to Cape and that he knew <br />
personaly John Cecil Rhodes...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aG86MUaDI/AAAAAAAAFKA/yp0L4V7grUs/s1600/Botswana+170+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aG86MUaDI/AAAAAAAAFKA/yp0L4V7grUs/s400/Botswana+170+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> My helmet....<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aHIDx19CI/AAAAAAAAFKI/IhuxkrnyUPs/s1600/Botswana+168+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aHIDx19CI/AAAAAAAAFKI/IhuxkrnyUPs/s400/Botswana+168+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The owner of the shebeen was also drunk like most of the<br />
customers sitting outside under a tree. He gave us the keys<br />
and let us help ourselves in his freezer<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aHiX46c7I/AAAAAAAAFKQ/ef9bMyPM9KY/s1600/Botswana+164+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aHiX46c7I/AAAAAAAAFKQ/ef9bMyPM9KY/s400/Botswana+164+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The first sign mentioning South Africa! It took us 101 days to<br />
reach this one. We are still over 2000 km away, but it is a nice<br />
booster for moral anyway.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aIja3xaAI/AAAAAAAAFKY/KA_ljoMMoQE/s1600/Botswana+159+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aIja3xaAI/AAAAAAAAFKY/KA_ljoMMoQE/s400/Botswana+159+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The dinner queue<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aIwpvqTJI/AAAAAAAAFKg/8c7yVFW8cP4/s1600/Botswana+158+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aIwpvqTJI/AAAAAAAAFKg/8c7yVFW8cP4/s400/Botswana+158+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a><br />
The risotto was served by the maestro himself....<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aI_fMu73I/AAAAAAAAFKo/KZHCXqjC-1A/s1600/Botswana+157+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aI_fMu73I/AAAAAAAAFKo/KZHCXqjC-1A/s400/Botswana+157+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> This is even more rare than spotting a leopard.... Jos doing dishes...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aJKk_yJTI/AAAAAAAAFKw/rZHJ01OaFP4/s1600/Botswana+156+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aJKk_yJTI/AAAAAAAAFKw/rZHJ01OaFP4/s400/Botswana+156+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="225" /></a></div> Gabriele starting to cook the rice for the risotto<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aJcLPbD2I/AAAAAAAAFK4/xInPg0qD0S8/s1600/Botswana+150+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aJcLPbD2I/AAAAAAAAFK4/xInPg0qD0S8/s400/Botswana+150+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="225" /></a></div> The riding info for the next five days... Plenty of kilometers...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aJmjA0yEI/AAAAAAAAFLA/dBNS3kABcZY/s1600/Botswana+149+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aJmjA0yEI/AAAAAAAAFLA/dBNS3kABcZY/s400/Botswana+149+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Grand Chef Gabriel in action tasting the bouillon for the risotto<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aJxsTfA-I/AAAAAAAAFLI/xkQ6l-bAePg/s1600/Botswana+147+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aJxsTfA-I/AAAAAAAAFLI/xkQ6l-bAePg/s400/Botswana+147+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="225" /></a></div> Today, James the TDA chef has been relagated to assistant.<br />
Here he is preparing the mushrooms that will be used in the risotto<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aJ-ZjPreI/AAAAAAAAFLQ/RG71bcgCaJQ/s1600/Botswana+145+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aJ-ZjPreI/AAAAAAAAFLQ/RG71bcgCaJQ/s400/Botswana+145+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="225" /></a></div> It is a miserable life at camp when it keeps on raining, and it is cold as well<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aKJS_-SqI/AAAAAAAAFLY/VlZP_Zl5nMQ/s1600/Botswana+143+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aKJS_-SqI/AAAAAAAAFLY/VlZP_Zl5nMQ/s400/Botswana+143+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Gert bathing in a cooking pot<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aKU0jjowI/AAAAAAAAFLg/es1evyMVaMU/s1600/Botswana+140+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aKU0jjowI/AAAAAAAAFLg/es1evyMVaMU/s400/Botswana+140+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Sherita and James preparing food under difficult conditions. <br />
The rain was so strong that it came through every possible corner<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aKifgvTDI/AAAAAAAAFLo/TsHhTWJnNdQ/s1600/Botswana+139+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9aKifgvTDI/AAAAAAAAFLo/TsHhTWJnNdQ/s400/Botswana+139+(Medium).jpg" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Gert cleaning pots for the kitchen.Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-80674421781720676252010-04-23T20:05:00.000+02:002010-04-23T20:05:24.112+02:00BOTSWANABotswana is flat.... It is the complete opposite of Ethiopia. It is flat and empty, no people. The road are straight and just disappear in the far distance. The country is a giant game park crossed by a few roads and you can ride your bicycle for hours without meeting anybody on the road, a complete novelty to us after crossing heavily populated regions of Africa. There are plenty of wild animals here if you judge by the amount of elephant droppings on the road. Some riders were lucky and saw elephants crossing the road in front of them. We had one yesterday trumpeting at us, probably to warn others that humans were near by, but we could not see him in the thick bush that bordered the road. <br />
<br />
Getting in Botswana was good fun as we used the famous Kazungula ferry to cross the Zambezi river. The Kazungula ferry is nothing more than a metal barge that can transport one truck at a time across the Zambezi. It takes about 10 minutes, and is good fun given the very basic condition of the barge making its way slowly across these crocodile infested waters... It is also a famous since it is the only place in the world where 4 countries meet. In the middle of the river, Zambia, Namibia, Botswana and Zimbabwe all come together.<br />
<br />
Once you enter Botswana, you start with cleaning your shoes and tires, by dipping them into a big pool of dirty water that contains some chemicals strong enough to kill the germs of the foot and mouth disease. Then, it is straight ahead for kilometers and kilometers. Pretty boring, and worst, it is even windy... The distances we are covering here are impressive, even in TDA terms. On most days in Botswana we are riding between 160 and 200 km. I am now writing this posting from Main and we have already covered 700 km in 5 days. <br />
<br />
So, this means that we are back in peloton riding which I am enjoying, I have to say. By now, we are a lot more experienced in group riding and I am amazed at how efficient peloton riding is. Single riders have no chance against a well organised peloton. It is also the best defence against the wind. We take turns of 5 km each in front and by doing so, we have been able to reach average speeds well above 30 km per hour even in head winds. Not bad. This efficiency has meant that we have had to find ways to kill time as we have been making it to camp early. So yesterday for example, we decided to have a stop at 103 km (out of 185) and spent 3 hours at a beautiful lodge where we stuffed ourselves with delicious cheese burgers and relaxed in their magnificent swimming pool. <br />
<br />
That is one thing Botswana is not short off, lodges... They specialize in high end lodges with the most exclusive levels of service. So, we were very glad that Planet Baobab let day visitors to enjoy their magnificent infrastructures. After spending 3 hours in this small paradise, we decided to hit the road again and cover the last 82 km. Unfortunately, we had a remake of our day 2 experience. (the day I almost lost my EFI due to a long stop for a comfortable lunch at a Red Sea resort and had to face a sand storm).<br />
<br />
While Jos, Andre and myself were having our cheese burgers by the pool, the weather had turned nasty and the strong tail wind we had enjoyed during the morning had now turned into a headwind with a worrying thick black line growing on the horizon. Within an hour and a half we hit this black line.... It was like entering the gates of hell. In a typical African thunderstorm style, we hit a curtain of rain... It was pouring so heavily that it hurt like it was hailing. Lightening started to crack over our heads and the wind was so strong that we were almost thrown off our bicycles. The temperature had dropped by at least 20 degrees and it was so dark, it felt like night had taken over.<br />
<br />
You could not see anything and there was nowhere to hide. We were in the middle of an open endless field with short bush and grass. Lightening was now banging right over our heads ans it felt like our last moments had arrived...Suddenly on the left hand side of the road, a small miracle.... One of the TDA vehicle was there! I had forgotten that last night at the rider meeting they had mentioned that due to the very long distance of the stage, they would have one vehicle parked at kilometer 150 for refreshments. We jumped inside and once we realised we were safe, we could not stop laughing at this experience. It was raining so hard that even the Land Cruiser of the TDA was leaking water from every corner. In less than 15 minutes, the rain stopped and as if nothing had happened the sun reappeared. We got back on our bicycles and pushed even harder now that we had lost a good 15 minutes. By the time we made it to camp, we were dry, except for our cycling shoes. Wao, what a storm and we had ridden straight into it. <br />
<br />
Timing was actually perfect, we had ridden the 185 km at an average speed slightly above 30 km per hour, enjoyed a 3 hours break at a magnificent lodge, eaten cheese burgers and made it to camp before dark. The storm riding was gonna be yet another one of these moment that you never forget. <br />
<br />
That evening at camp, we set a bigger than average locker 9 club meeting, inviting a few special guests of honor and enjoyed a 2,5 kg piece of Swiss cheese matured 36 months in cellar and specially delivered by Gabriel's brother who have joined us for this section of the tour...We make a point of inviting a different guest of honor almost each evening. In this way we get to know each rider in a different way than just on the bike. Tonight we invited Lanie. Lanie is amazing. She is the oldest woman rider, she is of Chinese origin, but lives in Canada. At the beginning of this tour, everybody smiled politely at her. She was the only rider who did not use cleats on her shoes and seemed very unprepared and unfit. But Lanie proved to be a tough cookie as they say in the US. She just got stronger and stronger. She is now not only finishing each and every stage but cycles at such a consistent pace that if you stop too long for a coke, Lanie already passes you. Impressed by her tenacity and very quiet approach to life, we decided that tonight Lanie was gonna be the guest of honor of the locker 9 brotherhood. She was delighted and probably touched by the gesture, I had never had a chance to speak with her for more than a minute, so it was nice to hear more about her. <br />
<br />
The atmosphere was colonial, the air was hot and humid, and the South African red wine went down our throats like mother's milk... A beautiful red sky added a hint of African flavour to this magical experience. TDA is very much what you make out of it and we are making sure we get the maximum, we race on the day and we enjoy beautiful Swiss cheese and South African wine in the evening. We are gentlemen racers, probably like the early tour de France riders who would stop in a local bar for lunch, have a glass of wine and get back on their bikes.... What a great times these must have been... Well, since we are not racing seriously, we can afford to spend 3 hours at a road side lodge and drink wine each night... And, by the way, make no mistake, tomorrow morning at 6h00 we will be on the road pushing a good pace, sharing the work riding in an organised peloton and having fun racing. <br />
<br />
The coming week is a tough one. This is the one when we do over 900 km in 5 days... Yes.... Each stage will be minimum 160 km and one is 207 km, the longest of the tour.Of course we are now very fit and it does not seem too difficult, but it is still a lot of hours on the saddle and much depends on the wind.207 km in a headwind can become a day of hell...<br />
It is incredible how the past 3 months have trained us to long distance riding. I remember suffering of cramps and general fatigue after 90 km on day one. Yesterday at kilometer 160, I was pushing my relay turn at 35 km per hour feeling absolutely fine and not even breathing heavily... That is the difference, we might be tired, but we are so much fitter and flat Botswana is a good place to evaluate this progress.Before this tour, I would have never been able to push such speeds even on much shorter distances.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HcJSUm8xI/AAAAAAAAFG4/lkEu4y2nfNE/s1600/Botswana+073+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HcJSUm8xI/AAAAAAAAFG4/lkEu4y2nfNE/s400/Botswana+073+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Hot dogs for lunch! Yeah!<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HcUhX9tgI/AAAAAAAAFHA/CNDl2uR6Ai8/s1600/Botswana+066+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HcUhX9tgI/AAAAAAAAFHA/CNDl2uR6Ai8/s400/Botswana+066+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a><br />
In Botswana, we have to clean our shoe soles and our bike<br />
tires in these giant dips against the foot and mouth disease<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HcjSpsFhI/AAAAAAAAFHI/7a46gSNOkFk/s1600/Botswana+060+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HcjSpsFhI/AAAAAAAAFHI/7a46gSNOkFk/s400/Botswana+060+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Another very basic bush camp in the middle of nowhere.<br />
Elephants were spotted just 100 meters from camp...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HczGhVgyI/AAAAAAAAFHQ/BP7a33yMW-Y/s1600/Botswana+057+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HczGhVgyI/AAAAAAAAFHQ/BP7a33yMW-Y/s400/Botswana+057+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Sundown on the Chobe river<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HdABaZ62I/AAAAAAAAFHY/YVXvyB5uXMQ/s1600/Botswana+053+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HdABaZ62I/AAAAAAAAFHY/YVXvyB5uXMQ/s400/Botswana+053+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Late afternoon boat cruise on the Chobe river for the TDA participants<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HdKxeDpYI/AAAAAAAAFHg/i7XXF5-U-3A/s1600/Botswana+051+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HdKxeDpYI/AAAAAAAAFHg/i7XXF5-U-3A/s400/Botswana+051+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The Chobe river flows into the Zambezi, just a few kilometers downstream<br />
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HdXYXpx9I/AAAAAAAAFHo/-Pr6sg9EGWE/s1600/Botswana+039+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HdXYXpx9I/AAAAAAAAFHo/-Pr6sg9EGWE/s400/Botswana+039+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a><br />
TDA riders stepping off the Kasangula ferry into Botswana<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9Hdjh_OqHI/AAAAAAAAFHw/KjUSusqZRjQ/s1600/Botswana+033+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9Hdjh_OqHI/AAAAAAAAFHw/KjUSusqZRjQ/s400/Botswana+033+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The Kasangula ferry is the only way to cross the Zambezi river between <br />
Botswana and Zambia. There is a huge queue of trucks especially since<br />
Zimbabwe introduced very heavy prices for using its roads<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HdyoBV0bI/AAAAAAAAFH4/HYLR_oU_obk/s1600/Botswana+030+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HdyoBV0bI/AAAAAAAAFH4/HYLR_oU_obk/s400/Botswana+030+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The most simple form of transport on these crocodile infested waters...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9Hd_JJTnxI/AAAAAAAAFIA/DrANsTOglz4/s1600/Botswana+027+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9Hd_JJTnxI/AAAAAAAAFIA/DrANsTOglz4/s400/Botswana+027+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> One of the TDA trucks joining us on the crossing<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HeItVlPZI/AAAAAAAAFII/ufjMntmZ2o4/s1600/Botswana+021+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HeItVlPZI/AAAAAAAAFII/ufjMntmZ2o4/s400/Botswana+021+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Me during the 15 minutes long crossing at the point where the 4 <br />
countries meet. Zimbabwe, Zambia, Namibia and Botswana<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HeVQHJQlI/AAAAAAAAFIQ/-JgHBAZLoDo/s1600/Botswana+001+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HeVQHJQlI/AAAAAAAAFIQ/-JgHBAZLoDo/s400/Botswana+001+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The biggest note the world has ever seen, a 100 trillion<br />
Zimbabwean dollars... It is worth a few cents...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HekfXB9EI/AAAAAAAAFIY/JPDiS90Npc0/s1600/Botswana+075+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HekfXB9EI/AAAAAAAAFIY/JPDiS90Npc0/s400/Botswana+075+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> A nice spot for lunch<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9Hey9XFSxI/AAAAAAAAFIg/PawNeYwEUqE/s1600/DSC04291+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9Hey9XFSxI/AAAAAAAAFIg/PawNeYwEUqE/s400/DSC04291+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HfLoLKvUI/AAAAAAAAFIo/WXIORE9kTus/s1600/DSC04295+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HfLoLKvUI/AAAAAAAAFIo/WXIORE9kTus/s400/DSC04295+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9Hfk0uKGRI/AAAAAAAAFIw/SMMaEFqDIJ4/s1600/DSC04299+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9Hfk0uKGRI/AAAAAAAAFIw/SMMaEFqDIJ4/s400/DSC04299+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Botswana is completely flat and the roads straight for hundreds of kilometers <br />
with windy conditions. Peloton riding is essential<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9Hf4CRkfnI/AAAAAAAAFI4/RcjdaAzloxM/s1600/Botswana+113+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9Hf4CRkfnI/AAAAAAAAFI4/RcjdaAzloxM/s400/Botswana+113+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The famous "Locker 9 club meetings" are becoming highly popular,<br />
especially at bush camps where there is nothing else to do. Here<br />
we are sampling some 36 month old Swiss cheese brought by <br />
Gabriel's brother who joined us for the current section. We might<br />
be in the middle of nowhere, but we are able to lift our spirits with such delicacies...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HgLAlEXXI/AAAAAAAAFJA/3Pq1KaCmZFw/s1600/Botswana+106+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9HgLAlEXXI/AAAAAAAAFJA/3Pq1KaCmZFw/s400/Botswana+106+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> We had 185 km to ride today and at kilometer 103, this opportunity<br />
of jumping into the pool of this road side lodge could not be turned <br />
down. Eventually 3 hours later, Jos, Andre and myself carried on and<br />
did the last 82 km in a record braking time despite a huge thunderstorm<br />
unleashing hell on us<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9Hghf7fOrI/AAAAAAAAFJI/oQIOnY8NPa8/s1600/Botswana+096+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9Hghf7fOrI/AAAAAAAAFJI/oQIOnY8NPa8/s400/Botswana+096+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9Hgq0NLJDI/AAAAAAAAFJQ/xKTvW1FwdSg/s1600/Botswana+095+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9Hgq0NLJDI/AAAAAAAAFJQ/xKTvW1FwdSg/s400/Botswana+095+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Planet Baobab is the name of this wonderful lodge where we also<br />
enjoyed plenty of cold drinks and delicious cheese burgers...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9Hg3X5is7I/AAAAAAAAFJY/aaWlRSgHVAk/s1600/Botswana+085+(Medium).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S9Hg3X5is7I/AAAAAAAAFJY/aaWlRSgHVAk/s400/Botswana+085+(Medium).JPG" tt="true" width="400" /></a></div> This giant Antbear is a landmark here in Botswana along the road <br />
between Nata and MaunJaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-75878673958121753782010-04-20T13:09:00.000+02:002010-04-20T13:09:57.522+02:00MZUNGU - WHITE MAN<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S82KqDgbhGI/AAAAAAAAFFY/wknZNhvLzmY/s1600/DSC_0003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S82KqDgbhGI/AAAAAAAAFFY/wknZNhvLzmY/s400/DSC_0003.JPG" width="357" wt="true" /></a></div> In some part of Africa, the african have been spotting mzungus...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S82K4MoKGDI/AAAAAAAAFFg/WLcQG3hhn1U/s1600/DSC_0004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S82K4MoKGDI/AAAAAAAAFFg/WLcQG3hhn1U/s400/DSC_0004.JPG" width="267" wt="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S82LFxKFrSI/AAAAAAAAFFo/MVZxa7yhVQI/s1600/DSC_0002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="332" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S82LFxKFrSI/AAAAAAAAFFo/MVZxa7yhVQI/s400/DSC_0002.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> I spotted this one in Victoria Falls ZimbabweJaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-78147675554319362632010-04-17T19:37:00.000+02:002010-04-17T19:37:39.409+02:00VICTORIA FALLS...ZAMBIA AND ZIMBABWE...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8m8fzS2B_I/AAAAAAAAFE4/VgCE79MBYtI/s1600/DSC_0065-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="156" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8m8fzS2B_I/AAAAAAAAFE4/VgCE79MBYtI/s400/DSC_0065-1.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div><br />
It has taken me 3 months and some 8500 km on my bicycle, but I have finally reached Vic Falls! It is a landmark in Africa as well as a crucial point for the TDA riders. This is the point when you realise that out of this extraordinary trip, there is hardly 4 weeks left. Now Cape Town is becoming a reality. When you start on such an expedition, you almost forbid yourself to think about the finish line, you want to focus on each stage and avoid mental fatigue. But Victoria Falls is the point where you can allow yourself to think about the end. <br />
<br />
I am tired, but happy. Happy to have made it all the way to Vic Falls EFI (there are still 12 of us), but even more happy because I have finally rejoined my life time partner, Jaana. We have missed each other a lot and it has been a long 3 months and 4 days, but it has also been good to us as we have used this separation to think about our lives and the future projects we would like to engage in together. <br />
<br />
When you live a normal life, the routine gets to you and rarely allows you to put things into perspective in your life. In many cases, it is unfortunately a big problem like a grave illness or a divorce that forces people to look back at their lives and take important decisions. Well, I feel very fortunate that I do not have to report on any grave problem, but thanks to this extraordinary adventure I am living, I am in the very fortunate position of having been detached from the material world. This has given me plenty of time to think about the bigger picture such as my personal future, the very meaning of happiness and what makes us happy. I have met so many happy people who owned absolutely nothing, but yet so nice and I also know so many people in the life I come from who have absolutely everything from a nice house to free access to medical treatment and yet they are miserable... So when I say that such a trip allows you to put things into perspective, believe me, it does. One thing I came to realise is that I stroke the lottery of life when I was born in a rich and developed country like France, and this trip has taught me that I should never forget that. <br />
<br />
I am physically very tired and the 2 days brake we are given at this world famous site are going to be spent recovering. After riding 500 km in the last 3 days we have now reached the southern end of Zambia. The last 3 trading days have been fast with strong winds (mostly tail winds), so it has meant average speeds well above the 30 km per hour and long distances. We have done what we call pace lines which means that a group of riders get into one straight line and relay each other in front every 3 to 5 km. This is such an efficient way to ride that single riders have no chance and get caught very quickly, even if they are stronger riders. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Victoria Falls is one of the most beautiful natural site I have ever seen. Jaana and I have been here several times before, but each time you get in front of this wonder of nature you get goose pimples. This is a truly magnificent place. When you are at the Vic Falls, there is one hotel you must stay in at least once in your life, the Victoria Falls hotel. Situated in the Zimbabwean side, it offers the best view of the falls in the distance and the bridge that crosses over the gorge between the 2 countries. Victoria falls hotel was built in 1903 and if you want to experience what Victorian living was about, well there is no better place in the world than this hotel. Nothing has changed here, you feel back in time a hundred years when you enter this wonderful hotel. One of the highlight of the day is the high tea served at 15h00 on the terrace facing the falls. Many movies were shot here. I can guarantee you that there is no better place in the world than this terrace to enjoy a Gin and Tonic. The service here is impeccable with neatly dressed white jacket butlers wearing a safari hat. Life in this hotel seems to be slowed down,a sensation of well being floats in the air, you feel emerged into history and pampered in a perfect Victorian style... Just what the doctor ordered for me, I am so looking forward for enjoying the 2 rest days in such a great place.<br />
<br />
So, there are exactly 4 weeks left and 2 countries before we get into South Africa. My next blog post will be from Botswana, and from there we will be heading for Namibia. There are still plenty of tough days ahead, with some 3500 km remaining. The stages in Botswana are going to be long. We will do almost 1000 km in the next 5 days, so it is plenty of saddle time remaining. In Namibia we have a very long dirt section as well which is a tough one. So I want to remain focused and to tackle each days as if it was the most important one. In any case, there is no such a thing as an "easy day" at TDA. Jaana will join me again in Windhoek, the capital of Namibia in 2 weeks. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8msR_sPjYI/AAAAAAAAFDw/MLzo8JHValM/s1600/DSC_0040.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8msR_sPjYI/AAAAAAAAFDw/MLzo8JHValM/s400/DSC_0040.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Gerald packing his tent that has been drying in the sun</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8mwkX2QcSI/AAAAAAAAFD4/fDUjzuYsD6U/s1600/DSC_0047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8mwkX2QcSI/AAAAAAAAFD4/fDUjzuYsD6U/s400/DSC_0047.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">We walk from the Zambian border post over the bridge to Zimbabwean side</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> watching at the Victoria Falls and the river gorge on the oppisite site of the bridge</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8mxv285DjI/AAAAAAAAFEA/8QKpqYMM4UU/s1600/DSC_0051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8mxv285DjI/AAAAAAAAFEA/8QKpqYMM4UU/s400/DSC_0051.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Victoria Falls hotel and the view to the bridge and the falls...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8mzv_Azw0I/AAAAAAAAFEI/pc9aiV09ryA/s1600/DSC_0057-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8mzv_Azw0I/AAAAAAAAFEI/pc9aiV09ryA/s400/DSC_0057-1.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Every afternoon with the sun and the mist you can see the rainbow</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> under the bridge, feels magical</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8m2LFSUkPI/AAAAAAAAFEQ/66SbbpxRe5E/s1600/DSC_0063-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8m2LFSUkPI/AAAAAAAAFEQ/66SbbpxRe5E/s400/DSC_0063-1.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">A train crossing the bridge</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8m3PKh72lI/AAAAAAAAFEY/CwLPJ0cbPB4/s1600/DSC_00491.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8m3PKh72lI/AAAAAAAAFEY/CwLPJ0cbPB4/s400/DSC_00491.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8m4RH55vtI/AAAAAAAAFEg/MeZganpXjsM/s1600/DSC_0026-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8m4RH55vtI/AAAAAAAAFEg/MeZganpXjsM/s400/DSC_0026-1.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8m5hR7UbFI/AAAAAAAAFEo/QiOqKhwkWZk/s1600/DSC_0048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="282" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8m5hR7UbFI/AAAAAAAAFEo/QiOqKhwkWZk/s400/DSC_0048.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">In Victoria Falls hotel you can really feel the colonial era of the Rhodesia,</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">They have hundreds of photos on the walls about the history of this</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> over hundred years of hotel</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8m6wsW0nXI/AAAAAAAAFEw/MJVMM13VmBQ/s1600/L1050392.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8m6wsW0nXI/AAAAAAAAFEw/MJVMM13VmBQ/s400/L1050392.JPG" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Gerald and I in the Victoria Falls walk way to visit one of the 7 natural</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> wonders of the world</div>Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-14993667480521235282010-04-13T10:32:00.000+02:002010-04-13T10:32:07.679+02:00BIKE DONATION IN LUSAKAToday we donated a further 28 bikes here in Lusaka bringing the total to 56 bikes donated in Zambia. If anywhere, it feels like Zambia is one of the places where these bikes are most needed. A very charismatic woman named "Loveness" told us that in her community, they use the bikes to visit AIDS orphans and follow up on them. They also visit AIDS patients to keep them up to date with the intake of medicines and make sure they don't stop. Previously, they could only visit an average of 6 households per day on foot, now this is five to ten times more thanks to the bicycles donated...<br />
<br />
<br />
The bicycles are built locally by a company called Zambikes. These bikes are really nice. Zambike also produces a bamboo frame bicycle, quite amazing actually. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8QqtIxl7NI/AAAAAAAAFDI/qGlJiynnxOo/s1600/zambia+142+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8QqtIxl7NI/AAAAAAAAFDI/qGlJiynnxOo/s400/zambia+142+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> We donated a total of 56 bikes in Zambia and here are the <br />
representatives of the associations to whom the bicycles went<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8Qq7WwL91I/AAAAAAAAFDQ/O5iudw9BNJs/s1600/zambia+139+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8Qq7WwL91I/AAAAAAAAFDQ/O5iudw9BNJs/s400/zambia+139+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> This woman named "Loveness" gave us a very emotional<br />
speach explaining us how the bikes donated make a huge<br />
difference in her comunity<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8QrY030bzI/AAAAAAAAFDY/biPs2BpwGpI/s1600/zambia+138+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8QrY030bzI/AAAAAAAAFDY/biPs2BpwGpI/s400/zambia+138+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Bill and Dr Margareth talking about the great work done<br />
by the Okanagan health care foundation<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8QrtNmBduI/AAAAAAAAFDg/39GCYxI83I0/s1600/zambia+130+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8QrtNmBduI/AAAAAAAAFDg/39GCYxI83I0/s400/zambia+130+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> The shopping mall next to my hotel in Lusaka, just like in South Africa<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8Qr4vMZMNI/AAAAAAAAFDo/faCYzryZrUk/s1600/zambia+147+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8Qr4vMZMNI/AAAAAAAAFDo/faCYzryZrUk/s400/zambia+147+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div>Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-75906435998596495372010-04-13T10:18:00.000+02:002010-04-13T10:18:59.625+02:00A DAY IN LUSAKALUSAKA.... Civilisation! At last.....<br />
<br />
<br />
I can hardly believe the enormous difference between Lusaka and rural Zambia. It is another planet.... Imagine this, a few hours ago, I was leaving our bush camp passing mud huts where pigs and chicken were running between the half naked children and here I am sitting in a 21 century modern air conditioned shopping mall enjoying a perfectly foamed cappuccino at one of the many South African owned restaurants.... All this in 4 hours of cycling... <br />
I did very well by the way today. I was in such a hurry to get back to civilization that I had my best ride of the tour. I left camp early and made it to lunch in 4th position. I did the 104 km in just over 3,5 hours and that even included a miss of the finish line resulting in an extra 10 km. I was in my hotel room before 10h00 am, just as I had planned. We have a rest day tomorrow, so making it so early is almost like 2 rest days...<br />
<br />
When I see the opulence here in Lusaka contrasting so much with what we have witnessed crossing north east Zambia, I can understand why Africa has a huge migration from rural to urban regions. I can imagine what must go through the mind of people arriving in Lusaka after spending their lives in the bush... Unfortunately, the dream is often short lived for these poor farmers who end up in townships, often abused by city gangsters who are far more street wise than they are. <br />
<br />
Arriving in Lusaka was like making it to an oasis in the desert.... This is now the very first time we have access to unlimited supply of Western luxuries. Cinemas, Italian ice creams, even Roquefort cheese and salamis available on the shelves here.... 3 months of crossing Africa on a bicycle has taught us to leave aside our dependence on these goods that we normally take for granted, but now it feels like Christmas has arrived... I filled a supermarket trolley and quickly realised it was stupid as I have only very limited space in my locker and in 2 days I will be back in bush camp mode, so I started to offload my trolley back on the supermarket shelves. I still kept the Italian salami and a bottle of wine which I rushed to enjoy in my hotel room... It was only 11h00 am... but who cares...<br />
<br />
There are two big modern shopping malls here in Lusaka and if you did not know, you could be in South Africa. Every shop is a South African chain and even all the South African banks are here. So, at the moment on the continent, it is China building roads and South Africa opening shops it seems. Even the menus of the restaurants are exactly the same as the one we get in Johannesburg...<br />
<br />
So, I am going to treat myself to a movie, have an Italian ice cream and wrap this up with a meal at the "Ocean basket" a famous South African fish chain restaurant. Oh... and I forgot to mention the Martini at Rhapsody's....Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-74396217429817820542010-04-12T13:56:00.000+02:002010-04-12T13:56:00.925+02:00AFRICA IS NOT EASY...We were told that once you pass the equator, things start to improve, camps and food get better, conditions are nicer and you should look forward for this part of the trip... Well, who ever told this obviously did not ride north east Zambia... The last 5 days have been rather depressing. The only thing that has changed is the length of the stages, we have even done 200 km one day, but as for comfort, we have gone back to Ethiopia levels with one horrible camp after another. It has almost become a standard joke amongst us, how does TDA manage to find such horrible camp sites... I suppose we are all very tired and 3 months of camping across Africa going from shit hole to shit hole makes you depressed, or is it the the Lariam?.. They say Lariam (the anti malaria pills we take) makes you depress... Well, I am usually a very positive person, but right now, I am depressed. I need civilisation... urgently.... please... A burger on a clean plate with chips and no flies on it...<br />
<br />
<br />
We have just done something between 700 and 800 km of hard core mountainous humid, super hot road across some boring country side (except for yesterday) with thinly populated areas. Thanks God, it is thinly populated because the few inhabitants here are either drunk or looking so poor and dirty that it adds to the depression feeling... I guess, we were all thinking that the worst was over a bit too early. 5 days in north east Zambia is a good reminder that crossing Africa on a bicycle is not a walk in the park...<br />
<br />
Zambia is poor, very poor.It makes more than half of its foreign income on only one commodity: copper. So Zambia depends on the price of copper. Right now, copper is expensive and the country's empty coffers can be refilled slowly but it would need a lot more that that to take it out of its current poverty levels. There also seems to be a high level of alcoholism here as we have seen plenty of drunk people (mostly men). So far the places we have stopped at, along the great eastern highway (that is just the name of the road, don't get too exited...) have been dirty and messy. Nothing is being maintained, buildings are left to fall apart and people live in conditions that feel like middle ages to us. Just about every coke stop we have done in the last five days sums it up, dirty and smelly places, kids wearing filthy rags and drunk young men sitting in the shade of a tree drinking local home made beer. Not a very positive picture, I am afraid. We have also met plenty of nice Zambians of course, but it has been a bit of a shock to many of us how dirty and filthy everything is here. They have some of the highest infant mortality rate in the world and I am not surprised. <br />
<br />
Camps have also been really depressing since we entered Zambia, hot humid and full of bugs. No commodities of course, no water, no toilets; so we have been looking for village water pumps to at least wash and get a sense of dignity back. This has been the highlight of the day, when we have poured this could bucket of water over our heads, giving us a fresh and clean feeling. But of course it is under the scrutiny of entire swamps of children and if you like privacy, you will be frustrated... The other thing is that you are permanently attacked by flies, mosquitoes, ants and spiders. Your nerves eventually start to give up and you hate being here. You cannot imagine how lucky you are when reading this in a sealed room with no flies on your face and ants climbing up your ankles. By now, many riders have very strange insect bites all over their bodies. Gabriele has been beaten by a spider on his stomach and it looks pretty bad, but there is not much one can do about it. We all have bites that are struggling to heal in this humid environment. Even a simple mosquito bite can turn into a nasty infection, so camp looks like a war hospital with many people walking with bandages on their ankles, arms and other strange body parts... <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MAhceobCI/AAAAAAAAE-c/C6AAV_A0P3Y/s1600/zambia+042+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MAhceobCI/AAAAAAAAE-c/C6AAV_A0P3Y/s400/zambia+042+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Tony celebrating his 50 th birthday after the 200 km ride, <br />
the longest of the tour so far<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MAzWyhRHI/AAAAAAAAE-k/SwHw3KK6ccU/s1600/zambia+039+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MAzWyhRHI/AAAAAAAAE-k/SwHw3KK6ccU/s400/zambia+039+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Our amused public after we used the village water pump for shower <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MBA07eTBI/AAAAAAAAE-s/rhhb0oIvciQ/s1600/zambia+038+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MBA07eTBI/AAAAAAAAE-s/rhhb0oIvciQ/s400/zambia+038+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Young kid pumping water<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MBM8vp0xI/AAAAAAAAE-0/Bt07OJeDPB8/s1600/zambia+029+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MBM8vp0xI/AAAAAAAAE-0/Bt07OJeDPB8/s400/zambia+029+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> When I said that there is not such a word as privacy in Africa, <br />
you can see what I mean... Wherever we go, there are always<br />
children and people to observe what the Muzungus are doing...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MBfWQt8eI/AAAAAAAAE-8/YQqY3ARO7E4/s1600/zambia+045+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MBfWQt8eI/AAAAAAAAE-8/YQqY3ARO7E4/s400/zambia+045+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> A very upset Tony, late on the evening of his 50 th cleaning up his <br />
tent from the 50 smelly dried fishes... It was like a scene out of an<br />
Asterix comic book as he started throwing the fishes at other tents... <br />
But who the hell put these fishes in his tent?....<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MB49AydCI/AAAAAAAAE_E/CSVvU1cSGgQ/s1600/zambia+023+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MB49AydCI/AAAAAAAAE_E/CSVvU1cSGgQ/s400/zambia+023+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Hardi and Eric at a coke stop<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MCED2EFcI/AAAAAAAAE_M/o0MFuDFEj2o/s1600/zambia+019+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MCED2EFcI/AAAAAAAAE_M/o0MFuDFEj2o/s400/zambia+019+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Building maintenance is not really a priority in Zambia....<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MCSKlOw1I/AAAAAAAAE_U/18t-ih5ZUxo/s1600/zambia+016+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MCSKlOw1I/AAAAAAAAE_U/18t-ih5ZUxo/s400/zambia+016+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Young local cyclist intrigued by our colourful bikes and gears <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MCiGdkz0I/AAAAAAAAE_c/POxwWCFEIR8/s1600/zambia+014+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MCiGdkz0I/AAAAAAAAE_c/POxwWCFEIR8/s400/zambia+014+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Jos and Gabriel buying food<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MCtou1YeI/AAAAAAAAE_o/suYn9wB4_Q8/s1600/zambia+013+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MCtou1YeI/AAAAAAAAE_o/suYn9wB4_Q8/s400/zambia+013+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> In rural Zambia, the shops are very basic and the buildings<br />
run down, we also found Zambia a lot more dirty than Malawi<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MC8DAdSRI/AAAAAAAAE_w/EriGoBwP8Ys/s1600/zambia+008+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MC8DAdSRI/AAAAAAAAE_w/EriGoBwP8Ys/s400/zambia+008+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a><br />
Anti corruption billboard next to the border post<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MDO1eCMmI/AAAAAAAAE_4/c1ihsfJQb2Y/s1600/zambia+025+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MDO1eCMmI/AAAAAAAAE_4/c1ihsfJQb2Y/s400/zambia+025+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Eric buying a coke from a typical small road side shop.<br />
(dirty and smelly)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MDr4Mbv7I/AAAAAAAAFAA/gF5cO4MZpXA/s1600/zambia+124+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MDr4Mbv7I/AAAAAAAAFAA/gF5cO4MZpXA/s400/zambia+124+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> The 28 bikes we are donating here in this very remote part of the country<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MD6Lm5h-I/AAAAAAAAFAI/0MJOgPQT8uw/s1600/zambia+123+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MD6Lm5h-I/AAAAAAAAFAI/0MJOgPQT8uw/s400/zambia+123+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> The bike hand over cermony was delayed and started late<br />
as the truck delivering the bikes from Lusaka broke down<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MEG6J8bwI/AAAAAAAAFAQ/EFsz_tAdV-s/s1600/zambia+114+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MEG6J8bwI/AAAAAAAAFAQ/EFsz_tAdV-s/s400/zambia+114+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Believe or not, but this is a shop in the middle of nowhere <br />
along the great Eastern Hihgway which we are following all <br />
the way to Lusaka. It is stocked with clothes, alcohol and biscuits<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MExAAEKxI/AAAAAAAAFAY/0kG9ykUtV0w/s1600/zambia+109+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MExAAEKxI/AAAAAAAAFAY/0kG9ykUtV0w/s400/zambia+109+(Medium).jpg" width="225" wt="true" /></a></div> Tony... still smelling .... fish<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MFDYLSnBI/AAAAAAAAFAg/EXmFCqrJDr0/s1600/zambia+105+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MFDYLSnBI/AAAAAAAAFAg/EXmFCqrJDr0/s400/zambia+105+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Tony wanted to show me that he had reconciliated with fish and <br />
posed in front of this horribly smelly drying fishes outside a shop... <br />
It might have reminded him of his tent... he he...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MFUxPPiuI/AAAAAAAAFAo/AeLEHeRcI7E/s1600/zambia+104+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MFUxPPiuI/AAAAAAAAFAo/AeLEHeRcI7E/s400/zambia+104+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Zambians are using straw to produce mùany things as you <br />
can see here. The police check point after the Luawnga <br />
river bridge has become a mini shopping center along both <br />
sides of the road<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MFrDeCf2I/AAAAAAAAFAw/X1Pkw0tNuyU/s1600/zambia+099+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MFrDeCf2I/AAAAAAAAFAw/X1Pkw0tNuyU/s400/zambia+099+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Dried smoked fish from the Luanwga river<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MF2Yk6NdI/AAAAAAAAFA4/3pr75-zqTLc/s1600/zambia+096+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MF2Yk6NdI/AAAAAAAAFA4/3pr75-zqTLc/s400/zambia+096+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Most riders took a cold drink brake at the police check point<br />
after crossing the Luanwga river bridge. Plenty of activity <br />
going on here<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MGEP3eZtI/AAAAAAAAFBA/iBNO83hcD7k/s1600/zambia+095+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MGEP3eZtI/AAAAAAAAFBA/iBNO83hcD7k/s400/zambia+095+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Police check points are commun all accross Africa, we have<br />
passed hundreds of them since Cairo. They never stop us on the bikes.<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MGU8xQt-I/AAAAAAAAFBI/L3FZgXp7eOY/s1600/zambia+091+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MGU8xQt-I/AAAAAAAAFBI/L3FZgXp7eOY/s400/zambia+091+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a><br />
The Luanwga river and the beautiful hanging bridge that we<br />
have just used for crossing<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MGm1RpM9I/AAAAAAAAFBQ/55RTPcwO6Hs/s1600/zambia+089+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MGm1RpM9I/AAAAAAAAFBQ/55RTPcwO6Hs/s400/zambia+089+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> As I was taking a shot of the river, this young fellow appeared out <br />
of nowhere and made his way to this blog...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MGza4xUVI/AAAAAAAAFBY/5P9SMoZ28Dg/s1600/zambia+087+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MGza4xUVI/AAAAAAAAFBY/5P9SMoZ28Dg/s400/zambia+087+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Fishing boat on the Luanga river. I took this shot from the bridge<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MG-olMZTI/AAAAAAAAFBg/3SmsuhhPhdE/s1600/zambia+085+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MG-olMZTI/AAAAAAAAFBg/3SmsuhhPhdE/s400/zambia+085+(Medium).jpg" width="225" wt="true" /></a></div> Luanwga river<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MHMscaJVI/AAAAAAAAFBo/hlWpM8IkBC8/s1600/zambia+079+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MHMscaJVI/AAAAAAAAFBo/hlWpM8IkBC8/s400/zambia+079+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> We were told that it is absolutely forbidden to take pictures of this <br />
bridge, so I had to get one...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MHZmDhkoI/AAAAAAAAFBw/wOM9Mi9tIH4/s1600/zambia+078+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MHZmDhkoI/AAAAAAAAFBw/wOM9Mi9tIH4/s400/zambia+078+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div> The Luanwga river from the bridge<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MHwtmHe7I/AAAAAAAAFCA/fkLPqHUhurY/s1600/zambia+073+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MHwtmHe7I/AAAAAAAAFCA/fkLPqHUhurY/s400/zambia+073+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> The Luanwga river makes its way in the middle of this<br />
very mountainous area, just like us...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MH810QffI/AAAAAAAAFCI/7XKFp7a9Xm0/s1600/zambia+067+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MH810QffI/AAAAAAAAFCI/7XKFp7a9Xm0/s400/zambia+067+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> This morning as we started our ride we had this amazing <br />
view of mountains bathed by sunshine and valleys filled <br />
with morning fog...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MIWqUAM3I/AAAAAAAAFCQ/ZPT3IncMAMU/s1600/zambia+065+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MIWqUAM3I/AAAAAAAAFCQ/ZPT3IncMAMU/s400/zambia+065+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Gabriele, pushing an early morning good pace for this <br />
150 km long stage which includes 2100 meters of climbing...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MIkxW7JpI/AAAAAAAAFCY/1NvJLUwZ-QY/s1600/zambia+064+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MIkxW7JpI/AAAAAAAAFCY/1NvJLUwZ-QY/s400/zambia+064+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Men sitting under shade and drinking the local home brewed beer,<br />
a very commun feature here in Zambia... <br />
We have seen a lot of drunk Zambians...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MI18gpuMI/AAAAAAAAFCg/Us5QzDlPj6M/s1600/zambia+062+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MI18gpuMI/AAAAAAAAFCg/Us5QzDlPj6M/s400/zambia+062+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> Family eating maize and a pumpkin leave mash (the green dish). <br />
I tried it and it was good<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MJFJ6pwLI/AAAAAAAAFCo/MFiWYAIa7jg/s1600/zambia+055+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MJFJ6pwLI/AAAAAAAAFCo/MFiWYAIa7jg/s400/zambia+055+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> In rural Zambia everybody still lives in such small traditional huts<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MJPxqPZRI/AAAAAAAAFCw/s0M5j2bvWR8/s1600/zambia+048+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MJPxqPZRI/AAAAAAAAFCw/s0M5j2bvWR8/s400/zambia+048+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> On the road we met this friendly young man from Mozambique.<br />
He had already travelled 50 km from the border to sell his goat<br />
loaded on his bike...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MJquiL3NI/AAAAAAAAFC4/vg-oJeB7DKo/s1600/zambia+047+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MJquiL3NI/AAAAAAAAFC4/vg-oJeB7DKo/s400/zambia+047+(Medium).jpg" width="225" wt="true" /></a></div> He he, another typical African story... We stopped at this restaurant<br />
impressed by the large offer advertised on the board.... The T-bone, <br />
the chicken and the beef were finished, the eggs were not ready and<br />
the only saussage looked so bad we decided to order what was left, the chips...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MKA7_vuPI/AAAAAAAAFDA/YQa1IKgLahc/s1600/zambia+126+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S8MKA7_vuPI/AAAAAAAAFDA/YQa1IKgLahc/s400/zambia+126+(Medium).jpg" width="400" wt="true" /></a></div> The bikes we donated are made here in Zambia by a company <br />
called Zambikes. These bikes are very solid and seem to be of a <br />
very good quality.Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-13809841591922403152010-04-07T19:18:00.000+02:002010-04-07T19:18:31.918+02:00REST DAY???Have mentioned in my previous postings that "rest days" are wrongly called and today was no exception... I had decided to sleep late but unfortunately the 5h00 am wake up routine that we are in also works on rest days. So I had to kill time watching CNN waiting for the hotel breakfast buffet to open at 6h00... First time I am watching CNN in 3 months and nothing has changed... Bombings in Iraq and the English are confused about their future... <br />
<br />
<br />
Today, on top of the normal rest day duties which includes laundry, purchasing of food, blog postings, shaving, and washing everything you own, I had on the agenda to attend the bike donation ceremony back at the TDA camp and to get my parcels sent from South Africa. One is coming hand delivered via Aneke a friend of Caroline the TDA nurse whilst the other one is supposed to be redirected from Dar es Salaam's DHL office to their Lilongwe branch. When I heard 2 weeks ago that the first parcel was held at the customs in Dar es Salaam, I immediately organised for a second packet to be resent via Aneke who happened to be in Pretoria that day. Thanks to a very fast action from my office staff at Junk Mail, all the items were repurchased in a few hours and sent via Aneke who was gonna join us here in Malawi. It was a wise move. The DHL office did confirm that it was absolutely no problem to redirect the parcel that was held in Dar es Salaam and even confirmed that it had arrived in Lilongwe... he he.... Well, today I found out that the parcel is still in Dar es Salaam at the custom... Plan B was the right thing to do and now I can enjoy new gloves, have extra tubes and replace the broken padding inside my helmet. <br />
<br />
So, instead of driving around Lilongwe trying to find the DHL office, I now had a bit of extra time which I invested in a full body massage. My tired legs were screaming with pain and it was not the nicest massage I have had, but at least I got the pressure on my knees to loosen a bit. I wish we could get massages more often, they really make a difference, you feel so good after that. Unfortunately such luxuries are limited to rest days in high end hotels and so far I have only had 3 chances to enjoy such a treat. My total cycling time since Cairo is now almost 400 hours, so this comes to one massage every 130 hours of cycling....<br />
<br />
After my massage, I took a quick walk to the nearest shop outside the hotel. I saw a nice looking restaurant called "Cappuccino". Perfect! I have not had a cappuccino in decades it feels, so I did not think twice and rushed inside already dreaming of the coffee flavour with a hint of cinnamon... Well, my dreams were short lived... Cappuccino had one espresso machine and it was broken... I should have known... This has happened again and again during this trip... Machines are broken and items on the menus are not available... But given the high level of development and comfort of Lilongwe, I got carried away and I was already thinking in European mode. So I let my frustrations go to the manager who was highly apologetic about the fact that Cappuccino did not have a working coffee machine..... When I told him that it was quite ridiculous that with such a name he had no coffee, he told me without joking that he was aware of the situation and was going to take the signage down!!!!! He he... I could not believe what I had just heard... I hinted that fixing the espresso machine would probably be a cheaper and faster option than re-branding his shop, but he just kept on laughing and was actually serious... I have to say that Africa keeps on surprising me, for the good and the bad... I just shook my head and went shopping without any cappuccino but an interesting story to share. <br />
<br />
Last night we ventured to "the best Italian restaurant" in town accordingly to the Lonely planet guide book..... he he... Another good story spoiled by an eye witness... This "best Italian restaurant" did not have one item that came close to any Italian food. As a matter of fact I doubt if they even knew where Italie was... Anyway the lonely planet employees should also think about visiting the places they write about.... Quite ridiculous....<br />
<br />
The afternoon was shared between finishing my "cleaning everything I own" duties and the bike donation ceremony. Making it back to camp took a bit longer than I had estimated due to the traffic jams of Lilongwe. Lilongwe is a strange city. It is made of two parts, the new and the old city, but you have to be told which one is which as everything looks alike. It is by far the cleanest and most modern city we have crossed so far and it looks like suburbs of Pretoria with leafy streets and shopping centers popping everywhere. This is the first time we actually can witness the commercial influence of South Africa. From Nedbank to Nandos, all the main South African chains are here. Even the buildings look alike. Lilongwe is also by far the most expensive place we have come across. For the first time we have taxis with seat belts, clean seats and in perfect condition. (charging first world prices of course). When I think back to the taxis of Khartoum or Addis, we are a world apart. I honestly did not expect Lilongwe to be so much more developed. Even the taxi drivers are friendly, calm and honest.... Way... That is a statement!<br />
<br />
We donated 72 bicycles to 3 health care associations. This year, 32 bicycles went to Emmanuel International, 20 to Partners in Health, and another 20 to Canadian Physicians for Aid and Relief. That brings the total number of bicycles donated through the TDA Foundation to more than 350 for 2010, and more than 1500 bikes since 2003. <br />
<br />
These bicycles donated here in Malawi are actually an interesting story on their own. They are old broken down or used bicycles coming from Canada and refurbished here in Malawi by an association called Africycle. This association has trained local staff to fix and rebuild these bikes collected on the other side of the planet.They are also very solid and will probably last longer than the cheaper versions produced in India and China. So the 72 bikes we donated today were purchased from Africycle for 100 euro each. This concept provides help both ways as it creates jobs for the people who fix them as well as relief for the people who receive them.. Great concept and a very efficient way to recycle. I have to once again stress the fact that I am very proud and pleased to have raised money for more than a 100 bikes thanks to you guys, it is really a great feeling to meet the people who can tell you exactly what a difference these bikes make to the people who received them. Well done!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7y8-psnbUI/AAAAAAAAE90/rsOiF1NsJEY/s1600/malawi+312+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7y8-psnbUI/AAAAAAAAE90/rsOiF1NsJEY/s400/malawi+312+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> We donated 71 bikes to 3 health care organisations. At this simple hand over<br />
ceremony, the representatives of these associations told us how effective those <br />
bicycles were and the impact they had on the community<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7y9PqSi7uI/AAAAAAAAE98/Td4L-01DmmQ/s1600/malawi+311+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7y9PqSi7uI/AAAAAAAAE98/Td4L-01DmmQ/s400/malawi+311+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Alison welcoming the South African high commissioner to the<br />
TDA fundation bike hand over ceremony<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7y9dL1xpaI/AAAAAAAAE-E/jh8tKWJf9-8/s1600/malawi+307+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7y9dL1xpaI/AAAAAAAAE-E/jh8tKWJf9-8/s400/malawi+307+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> This is also what we do on rest days, we swop and repair our tyres....<br />
Each rider has a few set of different tyres for the different road conditions.<br />
We don't have permanent access to these as they are kept on the roof <br />
of the dinner truck. The TDA staff off loads all the tyres on rest days<br />
(and some excpetional situations) so that we can change our tyres if needs be<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7y9zRd70SI/AAAAAAAAE-M/YTuLyvVYKNk/s1600/malawi+306+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7y9zRd70SI/AAAAAAAAE-M/YTuLyvVYKNk/s400/malawi+306+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> I bended my disk brake rotor and a new one is on the way from <br />
South Africa, in the meantime, I will be using the spare one<br />
on my second set of wheels<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7y-Gp8IhsI/AAAAAAAAE-U/mnuPJvcjjLI/s1600/malawi+305+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7y-Gp8IhsI/AAAAAAAAE-U/mnuPJvcjjLI/s400/malawi+305+(Medium).jpg" width="225" /></a></div> Finally I received one of the two long awaited packages sent from <br />
South Africa. The second one is still blocked at the customs in <br />
Dar es Salaam... Biltong, new gloves, new tubes, new helmet <br />
padding, a new pump, etc etc... This is Christmas!Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-57032333597420872562010-04-05T20:02:00.000+02:002010-04-05T20:02:20.129+02:00ON THE ROLLER COASTERThe only flat thing about Malawi seems to be its lake... I totally underestimated how much mountains this country hosts... Therefore the last 500 km of riding has felt like a roller coaster... We have had a few serious days of climbing with over 2000 meter for last Saturday alone... Anyway, we have just arrived safely in Lilongwe the capital of Malawi. A fairly modern capital when you compare it to the rural Malawi, with all modern facilities and busy traffic. <br />
<br />
I have been very strong over the couple of last riding days, making it to the finish line as early as 10h15 in the morning... (we are now starting at 6h30). Today Jos and I were flying and made it to the lunch truck in forth and fifth position and with the top 10 for the finish despite stopping for cold drinks (which the real racers don't do). We have had very strong head wind and rain for the last few days. This has added difficulty to the already challenging terrain. We have also done longer distances since we entered Malawi averaging 120 km each day. Today was one of the hardest with very strong head wind, 131 km and 800 meters of climbs in between. So it was all about teaming up with some strong riders and sharing the work in front. We each took relays of about 4 minutes and managed to keep average speeds well above 25 km/h, a decent number with such strong wind.<br />
Last night we camped in the backyard of a small hotel in a town called Kasungu. Nothing spectacular there, except for a very interesting open air market made of many narrow streets where you could find absolutely everything Malawi produces. This was a real "off the beaten track" experience as we made our way between these hundreds of food stands where each seller is trying to convince you to buy its products. The hotel did not have any water, nor did it have stable electricity (Kasungu is a typical small African rural town where they have shortages of water and load sharing for electricity). One thing the hotel had was a restaurant... So after eating a full plate of chicken wings from the TDA kitchen, I decided to treat myself to a T-bone steak at the restaurant. It was so good (having no electricity, they had to cook it on charcoal), I decided to order a second one... I am really feeling good now, eating like a king and getting stronger on the bike again, so this meat will just grow my missing body mass back... <br />
<br />
I probably overdid it a bit with the beers which were relatively cold (they keep them in freezers) and cannot recall how many I had but definitely a bit too many.. I felt a bit of a hungover this morning when getting on my bike... Well, it did not stop me from having one of my best riding days of the tour... <br />
<br />
In Lilongwe, I decided to treat myself to a suite at the Crossroad hotel where quite a few other TDA riders are also booked. After so many days in the bush and the harsh conditions of the tour, luxury tastes real good. We have a rest day tomorrow, which means I will be spending most of it in my suite just doing nothing... Sounds boring to you?... Well probably, but that's exactly what I miss the most now. A day of no action and complete privacy... Privacy is a word that does not exist at TDA, you are permanently surrounded by other riders or people. So one thing I start missing after 10 weeks of intense traveling is a lazy day without people... I need to rest my soul as well now. We are now 5 weeks and 4 days to the end of this incredible adventure... Too soon to start growing some conclusions, but one thing is sure, it has already given me so much that my life will never be the same again after this tour, that's for sure. TDA is more than a race or an adventure, it is a journey that is so intense that only on rest days can you appreciate the size of this challenge. <br />
As we arrived in Lilongwe, we had the nice surprise to rejoin with David who had to leave us in a hurry while we were crossing Tanzania. His father-in-law passed away and David made his way back to Toronto after a 50 hours journey from his tent where he was sleeping when he got the phone call all the way back to Canada. David was really happy to be back and the brotherhood of locker 9 is joyful to have all members again... David also brought a full supply of tubes and new hand pumps, a great relief after Tanzanian puncture Waterloo...<br />
As we make our way south, we are seeing more and more South African products available in shops, a true pleasure for us. This means we are now starting to find T-bones on menus as well as South African beers and soft drinks in petrol stations. Malawi is almost over and yet we are about to tackle our next country: Zambia. The next stretch will take us to Lusaka, the capital and from there, we will head straight for the long awaited Vic Fall brake. This is where Jaana, my wife will be waiting for me. We last saw each other on January 11 when I left for Cairo, so you can imagine that we are both counting the days...<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ogO4dtyCI/AAAAAAAAE68/CSCWVmf-DkM/s1600/malawi+304+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ogO4dtyCI/AAAAAAAAE68/CSCWVmf-DkM/s400/malawi+304+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Jos on a taxi bicycle is a slightly heavier passenger than the average Malawian...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ogX3SubAI/AAAAAAAAE7E/9iNssGnGjAc/s1600/malawi+303+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ogX3SubAI/AAAAAAAAE7E/9iNssGnGjAc/s400/malawi+303+(Medium).jpg" width="225" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Carpenters are making furniture on site in this giant open air market</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ogmQNhglI/AAAAAAAAE7M/Fl1g2wgdYB0/s1600/malawi+296+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ogmQNhglI/AAAAAAAAE7M/Fl1g2wgdYB0/s400/malawi+296+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Many hair styles to choose from on these wall posters<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ogxKHX4fI/AAAAAAAAE7U/vV_Rn6RNEUE/s1600/malawi+294+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ogxKHX4fI/AAAAAAAAE7U/vV_Rn6RNEUE/s400/malawi+294+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> The barber shop seems to be the local get together point<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7og77EskvI/AAAAAAAAE7c/4A7GRS7tuZg/s1600/malawi+286+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7og77EskvI/AAAAAAAAE7c/4A7GRS7tuZg/s400/malawi+286+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> The bicycle spare part shop owner shows us the Malawian version<br />
of bicycle brake pads, a piece of rubber cut in a tyre and a bolt running through...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ohLVGj61I/AAAAAAAAE7k/zxHGnW998b0/s1600/malawi+285+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ohLVGj61I/AAAAAAAAE7k/zxHGnW998b0/s400/malawi+285+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> These are dried smoked fish from lake Malawi. In Europe they are <br />
sold alive for a fortune in Aquarium shops, here they are just cheap proteins...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ohZK1PchI/AAAAAAAAE7s/b2KDZgKLDco/s1600/malawi+275+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ohZK1PchI/AAAAAAAAE7s/b2KDZgKLDco/s400/malawi+275+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Jos and Gabriele checking a bicycle spare part dealer at the giant<br />
Kasungu open air market<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ohrVul2fI/AAAAAAAAE70/BzSikaJl3qo/s1600/malawi+269+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ohrVul2fI/AAAAAAAAE70/BzSikaJl3qo/s400/malawi+269+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Flour for sale<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7oiDr5DsfI/AAAAAAAAE78/m7bWu9E85v8/s1600/malawi+267+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7oiDr5DsfI/AAAAAAAAE78/m7bWu9E85v8/s400/malawi+267+(Medium).jpg" width="225" /></a></div> This guy does not have an official stand,<br />
but he sells self made knives<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7oiTnrPUDI/AAAAAAAAE8E/XUKKHR1ZlqE/s1600/malawi+265+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7oiTnrPUDI/AAAAAAAAE8E/XUKKHR1ZlqE/s400/malawi+265+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> It is very hot here and kids are making a business of selling cold water<br />
bags in these narrow streets of the Kasungu market<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7oiftsPx8I/AAAAAAAAE8M/s7n17I9Lhn8/s1600/malawi+264+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7oiftsPx8I/AAAAAAAAE8M/s7n17I9Lhn8/s400/malawi+264+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Cooking oil is expensive and is therefore sold by the spoon here, <br />
enough for cooking one meal <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ojBTi4YWI/AAAAAAAAE8U/3jSDTGX6p6Q/s1600/malawi+253+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ojBTi4YWI/AAAAAAAAE8U/3jSDTGX6p6Q/s400/malawi+253+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Bicycle taxis waiting for customers outside the narrow streets <br />
of the enormous Kasungu open air market. A ride costs 50 <br />
Quecha, about 15 US cents<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ojTGqKogI/AAAAAAAAE8c/X7uWg4iqIok/s1600/malawi+250+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ojTGqKogI/AAAAAAAAE8c/X7uWg4iqIok/s400/malawi+250+(Medium).jpg" width="225" /></a></div> Fried termites are cheap and good source of proteins.<br />
I tried a few, pretty tasteless actually...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ojgOa89yI/AAAAAAAAE8k/Tgg7bWvsLvI/s1600/malawi+247+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ojgOa89yI/AAAAAAAAE8k/Tgg7bWvsLvI/s400/malawi+247+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> About 1 km from camp we found the local bar, only hot beers <br />
of course, but beer anyway...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ojuQutJnI/AAAAAAAAE8s/abfZpdoiEJo/s1600/malawi+244+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ojuQutJnI/AAAAAAAAE8s/abfZpdoiEJo/s400/malawi+244+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> This woman is buying tomatoes directly from the farmer, <br />
she travels 3 hours by bus back to the nearest big city <br />
(Mzuzu) where she will resell them for a profit of course<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7oj-JDA4xI/AAAAAAAAE80/-eQ4G-q_68w/s1600/malawi+243+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7oj-JDA4xI/AAAAAAAAE80/-eQ4G-q_68w/s400/malawi+243+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> This young Malawian is a tomato producer, he lived in South Africa<br />
where he held a job as a house servant for 3 years. With the money <br />
he saved, he bought land back home and started a small tomato farm.<br />
He told me that he was happy and that he made a good living out of <br />
his farming activity. Nice story<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7okSFyfSSI/AAAAAAAAE88/F4PmSrrvB3M/s1600/malawi+242+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7okSFyfSSI/AAAAAAAAE88/F4PmSrrvB3M/s400/malawi+242+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Open air Easter Mass. I was invited by the priest to join, which I did<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7okcPocpdI/AAAAAAAAE9E/rV9miIRzQj0/s1600/malawi+236+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7okcPocpdI/AAAAAAAAE9E/rV9miIRzQj0/s400/malawi+236+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Camp is next to a school tonight and every school has a footbal pitch.<br />
Even if we were outnumbered by a large margin, Sam managed to score a goal...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7okstPwzwI/AAAAAAAAE9M/o8069JhMb5g/s1600/malawi+233+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7okstPwzwI/AAAAAAAAE9M/o8069JhMb5g/s400/malawi+233+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Not many coke stops in this remote mountainous region of Malawi, <br />
so we had once again to satisfy ourselves with warm cokes and some shade...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ok6atzQUI/AAAAAAAAE9U/gmEIcHppsrg/s1600/malawi+225+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7ok6atzQUI/AAAAAAAAE9U/gmEIcHppsrg/s400/malawi+225+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> All accross Africa, women carry things on their heads, <br />
but the Malawians hold the reccord for the heaviest loads...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7olGmRh0CI/AAAAAAAAE9c/dfsVSXpaHMc/s1600/malawi+222+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7olGmRh0CI/AAAAAAAAE9c/dfsVSXpaHMc/s400/malawi+222+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> As always, TDA is a major attraction when we hit remote areas. <br />
These are the friendly spectators of our lunch stop...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7olTZ1XJHI/AAAAAAAAE9k/sCT66miX5sQ/s1600/malawi+213+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7olTZ1XJHI/AAAAAAAAE9k/sCT66miX5sQ/s400/malawi+213+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> The locker 9 gang posing for a spectacular view...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7oldvUddvI/AAAAAAAAE9s/KNqA8s4YTB0/s1600/malawi+206+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7oldvUddvI/AAAAAAAAE9s/KNqA8s4YTB0/s400/malawi+206+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Over 2000 meter of climbing today brought us right back <br />
into the clouds and the rain...Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-23351271658579066202010-04-03T20:52:00.000+02:002010-04-03T20:52:12.879+02:00MZUZU<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Have you ever heard of a town called Mzuzu? Well, don't worry, if you asked me this morning I would have also said "never", but since I am writing this blog from Mzuzu, let me tell you about this pleasant town. <br />
<br />
Mzuzu is Malawi's third biggest town and was such a nice surprise. It has clean and tree covered streets, relatively modern shops, banks, ATMs and because it is situated at an altitude of 1300 meters, the temperature is much cooler than by the lake. It has also far less bugs and humidity, making it nice to walk around without having to fight flies, mosquitoes while sweating like a pig.<br />
Today's 136 km stage took us back to the African plateau. We did plenty of climbing, starting with a 700 meter gain over a short and steep 10 km stretch. The climb was hard but pleasant as it got cooler with the altitude. At half way through the climb, we encountered this really beautiful waterfall just meters away from the road side. I did not need much convincing to get off my bike and jump into this refreshing natural shower. Great fun and great way to cool down! <br />
The rest of the ride was full of little climbs but it was also full of coke stops, so we had no problems of dehydration. It seems that as we progress south, we are finding more and more luxuries like cold drinks. Today most coke stops had electricity and therefore cold drinks. This is new for us. We have gone at times days without finding a cold coke... So having the luxury of picking when you want to stop for a cold drink is a treat we had forgotten.<br />
We have now left lake Malawi and are heading for Lilongwe, the capital. We rode most of the day going up a beautiful valley covered with African trees and tobacco plantations along the hills. There is very little traffic here, making it really pleasant for us. Just plenty of people walking along the road and all so friendly, it is really true that Malawians are the friendliest people in Africa. Riding through Malawi on a bicycle is the perfect opportunity to realise how nice people are here. Everybody salutes you and wishes you a pleasant journey. It feels really good, I must say.<br />
<br />
Gabriele, Jose and myself rode together, we made it to the finish line before 14h00 so being in a city for a change we decided to look for a good restaurant and have a huge portion of meat. That's exactly what we did. You can see we are now approaching meat eating countries, T- Bone was on the menu! After ordering and eating an insane amount of meat, we decided to come back to camp site early as we heard that tomorrow is even harder with over 2000 meters of climbing.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eIFDogsYI/AAAAAAAAE2M/2Jci9bH6HSM/s1600/malawi+203+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eIFDogsYI/AAAAAAAAE2M/2Jci9bH6HSM/s400/malawi+203+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The clean and tree covered streets of Mzuzu<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eIOqxLEMI/AAAAAAAAE2U/mUU_g3thnJM/s1600/malawi+199+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eIOqxLEMI/AAAAAAAAE2U/mUU_g3thnJM/s400/malawi+199+(Medium).jpg" width="225" /></a></div> At a coke stop, I came accross this hand written advert outside<br />
the shop which I thought was worth putting on the blog...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eIwlXdBUI/AAAAAAAAE2c/paSydgOyiWI/s1600/malawi+196+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eIwlXdBUI/AAAAAAAAE2c/paSydgOyiWI/s400/malawi+196+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Eastern procession on the road<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eJLAC9_BI/AAAAAAAAE2s/4n3WDvo5-z4/s1600/malawi+195+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eJLAC9_BI/AAAAAAAAE2s/4n3WDvo5-z4/s400/malawi+195+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> These workers busy cutting the grass along the road side offered <br />
me to share their lunch, a maize stem that was boiled in water. <br />
It is actually delicious, especially when you are hungry<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eJiPuOnMI/AAAAAAAAE20/4LopBeSw2uE/s1600/malawi+193+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eJiPuOnMI/AAAAAAAAE20/4LopBeSw2uE/s400/malawi+193+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">This potatoe looking root is produced everywhere here in Malawi</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eJy1WEbdI/AAAAAAAAE28/HcdQP3bwXeo/s1600/malawi+191+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eJy1WEbdI/AAAAAAAAE28/HcdQP3bwXeo/s400/malawi+191+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Eric and Eric passing local people during the climb.<br />
Here everybody carries something on its head<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eJ_Nk6IbI/AAAAAAAAE3E/USlniG6HzXk/s1600/malawi+189+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eJ_Nk6IbI/AAAAAAAAE3E/USlniG6HzXk/s400/malawi+189+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Beautiful little huts evreywhere<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eKKqVBvvI/AAAAAAAAE3M/oVDWCZpmJpg/s1600/malawi+181+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eKKqVBvvI/AAAAAAAAE3M/oVDWCZpmJpg/s400/malawi+181+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Tobacco plantations<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eKZdKfqwI/AAAAAAAAE3U/dyEQnV3rbGo/s1600/malawi+180+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eKZdKfqwI/AAAAAAAAE3U/dyEQnV3rbGo/s400/malawi+180+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> As I stopped to take a picture, these two kids run towards<br />
me and were very intrigued by my camera<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eKnGRIgmI/AAAAAAAAE3c/HsHneh8_9q8/s1600/malawi+176+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eKnGRIgmI/AAAAAAAAE3c/HsHneh8_9q8/s400/malawi+176+(Medium).jpg" width="225" /></a></div> he he, I love that one...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eKzm6Z6YI/AAAAAAAAE3k/k8NozG0zi10/s1600/malawi+173+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eKzm6Z6YI/AAAAAAAAE3k/k8NozG0zi10/s400/malawi+173+(Medium).jpg" width="225" /></a></div> During our big climb today we passed this nice waterfall.<br />
The temptation was too high, I jumped into it and enjoyed <br />
the best open air shower in Malawi... I only noticed the<br />
number 113 painted on the road. (it is also my race number) <br />
when viewing on my laptop<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eLL8bn_sI/AAAAAAAAE3s/UxQ8HrSS_nQ/s1600/malawi+204+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7eLL8bn_sI/AAAAAAAAE3s/UxQ8HrSS_nQ/s400/malawi+204+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> The Mzuzu pharmacyJaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-55173556706716111462010-04-02T11:01:00.000+02:002010-04-02T11:01:46.072+02:00WELCOME TO MALAWIWe are now entering the 6th country since we departed on January 16 in Cairo. Malawi is a tiny place, the size of a French province and famous for its lake which is the third biggest in Africa. With a length of about 600 km, lake Malawi covers 20% of the country. It feels more like a small sea with sand beaches and big waves. Malawi is highly populated with 12 million people for such a small country and is one of the poorest in the world. <br />
<br />
<br />
Border crossing between Tanzania and Malawi was a pleasant surprise, easy and efficient. When you read stories of past travellers going through borders, it seems that parts of Africa are starting to get their act right in terms of border crossing, at least on some of the big routes. It was the easiest and fastest border process so far in the trip and within minutes, Gabriel and I were enjoying our first pedal strokes in Malawi. <br />
<br />
The first thing that surprises you is the amount of children along the road. It immediately reminded us of Ethiopia. Malawi is poor, very poor and it does not take long to understand it. These were the first cases of malnutrition we witnessed. Half naked children running towards us with their big tummy and tiny bodies. They all screamed "gimme money, gimme money". Some of these kids are pretty exited, almost aggressive insisting in getting our attention and running at us for begging. So we immediately had to switch back to Ethiopia mode where you pay a lot of attention to these kids and try to avoid them physically as they run straight at you, making it dangerous for you and for them. The best, like in Ethiopia is to engage in loud "hello hello, how are you?" conversation while waiving at them. This seems to make them happy and often stops them for running too close to the bike. You can see that these kids are desperate. They are wearing dirty rugs and look pretty filthy. The ratio adult to kids is just as shocking, so many kids and so few adults, especially old people, there are hardly any. The life expectancy here is only 42, so that may explain.<br />
<br />
The other things that we could not miss were the humidity and the heat. We had just descended over 1500 meters and were now at an altitude of about 400 meters. It felt like being in a sauna. I was sweating so much that my cycling shirt felt as heavy as a wet mop. The vegetation is so dense that unless there is a rice field, you can't see far. It is green everywhere and the noise from the millions of insects that live here complete the exotic ambiance. Talking of insects, we are now in the most risky malaria area and have Ben told to be careful with bites. Easier said than done, these flying things are just everywhere and if it is not a kid trying to steal your bike computer, it is a mozzie trying to suck your blood when you stop for taking a picture. Here the kids are so poor that they do make desperate attempt to grab things from you. At one of my many photo stops, I got surrounded by a group of 5 or 6 young boys. Nothing new, as it is always the case along these roads, but suddenly they all tried to grab my camelbak and steal it. Luckily it is strapped around my shoulders and they could not get it, but it was a good warning, we are now in a "grab and run" territory where any loot is worth a lot to these desperate children.<br />
<br />
Malawi is also full of wonderful people. Most adults Malawian I met the next day were friendly and easy to approach. As a matter of fact, Malawians approach you. They are all very keen to find out where we are going on our fancy bicycles. Malawi is bicycle country, there are few cars here but plenty bicycles. They all look like they come out of the same factory, which they probably do. I investigated and found out that the Malawians living here are all purchasing their "made in India" bicycles from Tanzania for about 100 dollars a piece, a fortune for a Malawian. Here bicycles are used to transport anything from live pigs to huge stacks of grass, full water tanks, wood, etc etc... Bicycle taxi is also the most common way of transport as it costs the equivalent of 30 cents for a short ride. A bicycle taxi can take up to 3 persons for that price. This makes it very easy for us to meet the locals as they love riding next to us and engage in conversation while we ride. I suppose that the guys in the front of the race are so fast that they miss completely this opportunity to engage with the Malawians. <br />
<br />
I am riding slowly enough for them, so let me tell you about a young man named "Maroun" who rode with me the first 35 km of yesterday morning between camp and the city of Karunga. Maroun was on his way to town on his bike, an 80 km return trip like he does almost everyday to purchase food and other items for his family. Maroun is 18 years old, he is a young farmer. He was 16 and had to drop out of school two years ago when his father passed away (most likely from AIDS as he described it as a long illness) and since that has been in charge of the family farm. Being the oldest son of 4 he inherited half the family farm, so exactly 1,5 Ha whilst the remaining 1,5 Ha went to his 3 other brothers. Maroun's English was good and he was already speaking like an middle age adult, obviously life had forced him to take short cuts in his teen years. <br />
<br />
Maroun explained to me that life as a farmer was good at the moment. He cultivates rice and maize which bring monthly revenues of about 2 to 3 hundred dollar plus gives him and his family enough food for each day. He was quite happy about the fact that the price of rice had gone up, but he also told me that his biggest expense were chemicals which prices were also going up fast. Maroun told me that his biggest fear is drought with disastrous consequences especially for rice. It takes him 6 months from start to harvest for rice, so Maroun and his family are living on a 6 months plan and the hope of no drought. He told me that he only wanted 3 children and that his wife was already expecting their first baby soon. Maroun was a brave young man who had me thinking a lot yesterday after I met him. I wondered how many 18 years old kids in Europe would have been as matured and as courageous as Maroun. Life is not easy here and meeting him had just reminded me once again how lucky I was to have been born in rich Europe were I had received free and good education for as long as I wished.(actually, I am the wrong example, I didn't wish it for that long...)<br />
<br />
The 120 km long stage was magic, giving us again amazing landscapes and allowing us to meet so many new people. Malawi is really an easy place to make contacts. The roads are full of people who are either walking or riding bicycles. The road sides here are also used for many other purposes than just a road. All along the roads you see white patches of maize being spread on the tarmac for drying. You also have plenty of women using the road side to dry their goat cheese on the sun. In between are often cows tied with a rope to a tree and children playing. The Malawian roads are full of life sounds and smells, they never get boring it seems.<br />
<br />
Today I have been enjoying a quality rest day along the shore of lake Malawi in a tiny lodge which has only 6 huts. It is run and owned by Marc, a very friendly English guy. A couple of years ago Marc had the surprise to meet Ewan Mcgregor and Charlie Boorman from "The long way down". They stopped here for a night and loved his place so much that they stayed 3 days. Well, unfortunately I am on a bicycle so 3 days is not possible, but I have enjoyed my rest day here and have recharged my batteries for the next 500 km taking us to the capital city of Malawi, Lilongwe. We will be there in 4 riding days. We have been told that we are now going back to the African plateau and this will mean a 1000 meter climb in our first 10 km tomorrow morning. So I'll have double desert tonight....<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WtxFo8AUI/AAAAAAAAEz8/3I2jlapPScs/s1600/malawi+151+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WtxFo8AUI/AAAAAAAAEz8/3I2jlapPScs/s400/malawi+151+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> In Malawi, they transport anything on bicycles, even bicycles...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7Wt6oXbkbI/AAAAAAAAE0E/Og1mr7pRaYQ/s1600/malawi+149+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7Wt6oXbkbI/AAAAAAAAE0E/Og1mr7pRaYQ/s400/malawi+149+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> This bar offers "Whiteman TV shows" as entertainment...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WuJEgSn_I/AAAAAAAAE0M/EYNVJDnmpI0/s1600/malawi+147+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WuJEgSn_I/AAAAAAAAE0M/EYNVJDnmpI0/s400/malawi+147+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> The fishing boats are made from one tree trunk <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WuVBfWxuI/AAAAAAAAE0U/geeoU02ujq0/s1600/malawi+146+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WuVBfWxuI/AAAAAAAAE0U/geeoU02ujq0/s400/malawi+146+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> The kids were very exited by our presence and by my camera. <br />
The young boys immediately started to display some warrior moves<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WukE7Q91I/AAAAAAAAE0c/lDZY_9Wt5ss/s1600/malawi+142+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WukE7Q91I/AAAAAAAAE0c/lDZY_9Wt5ss/s400/malawi+142+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> My bike happlily resting along the shore of lake Malawi<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7Wut4iuDiI/AAAAAAAAE0k/EUUe-_W0OqA/s1600/malawi+141+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7Wut4iuDiI/AAAAAAAAE0k/EUUe-_W0OqA/s400/malawi+141+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Local kids very exited all wanted to be in the shot<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7Wu59sGMoI/AAAAAAAAE0s/yyjUWBpfguk/s1600/malawi+138+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7Wu59sGMoI/AAAAAAAAE0s/yyjUWBpfguk/s400/malawi+138+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
Tired, but happy... I have finaly reached lake Malawi holding to my EFI status<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WvGVDH2DI/AAAAAAAAE00/DtL5CU2u2A4/s1600/malawi+131+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WvGVDH2DI/AAAAAAAAE00/DtL5CU2u2A4/s400/malawi+131+(Medium).jpg" width="225" /></a></div> I managed to take this shot of this young boy just before <br />
50 more rushed into the scene and tried to be on the photo as well...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WvY-yGtiI/AAAAAAAAE1E/XTGcZVV4IeU/s1600/malawi+129+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WvY-yGtiI/AAAAAAAAE1E/XTGcZVV4IeU/s400/malawi+129+(Medium).jpg" width="225" /></a></div> The lake has fishes of all shapes and sizes<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7Wvj5HtYjI/AAAAAAAAE1M/LlpDanltWkI/s1600/malawi+124+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7Wvj5HtYjI/AAAAAAAAE1M/LlpDanltWkI/s400/malawi+124+(Medium).jpg" width="225" /></a></div> Fishermen collecting the fishes of the nets before selling<br />
them straight on the beach to awaiting women. The<br />
women process the fishes immediately on site<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7Ww0lSVMOI/AAAAAAAAE1U/gzhgAuXY_wo/s1600/malawi+113+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7Ww0lSVMOI/AAAAAAAAE1U/gzhgAuXY_wo/s400/malawi+113+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> These sardine looking fishes are called Lusipias. They dry them <br />
and smoke them for conservation purpose<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WxCSBdfcI/AAAAAAAAE1c/loMWuMvMKRo/s1600/malawi+112+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WxCSBdfcI/AAAAAAAAE1c/loMWuMvMKRo/s400/malawi+112+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WxLElc2jI/AAAAAAAAE1k/-lsTjw0X1WE/s1600/malawi+109+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WxLElc2jI/AAAAAAAAE1k/-lsTjw0X1WE/s400/malawi+109+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Woman preparing lunch with freshly caught fish<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WxUvcTmnI/AAAAAAAAE1s/fFNgp6crFCM/s1600/malawi+105+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WxUvcTmnI/AAAAAAAAE1s/fFNgp6crFCM/s400/malawi+105+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> As we walked towards the fishermen, a crowd of kids <br />
started following us. These kids are vey poor and as you<br />
can see some of them suffer from bad nutrition<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7Wxii9woRI/AAAAAAAAE10/x8QvoSndVuI/s1600/malawi+102+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7Wxii9woRI/AAAAAAAAE10/x8QvoSndVuI/s400/malawi+102+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> If we didn't see pigs up to now, we are suddelny surrended by them<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WxuOIRZeI/AAAAAAAAE18/iQ9mFj6z_AI/s1600/malawi+096+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7WxuOIRZeI/AAAAAAAAE18/iQ9mFj6z_AI/s400/malawi+096+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Coke stops are a bit like in Ethiopia here, within minutes crowds <br />
of kids surround us and we have to be on the watch for our bicycles.<br />
This morning two bike computers were stolen at camp<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7Wx_kQgeoI/AAAAAAAAE2E/zkJgn14Gb1U/s1600/malawi+155+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7Wx_kQgeoI/AAAAAAAAE2E/zkJgn14Gb1U/s400/malawi+155+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Finally a bit of quietude. This is Sangilo sanctuary along the shore <br />
of lake Malawi. Ewan Mc Gregor and Charley Boorman stoped<br />
here three days during their "Long Way Down" I will enjoy my <br />
rest day in the very same hut where they stayed...Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-78938864387275141042010-04-01T18:06:00.000+02:002010-04-01T18:06:30.757+02:00GOOD BYE TANZANIAOur last day in Tanzania was spectacular, nothing less than that! It started with a 20 km climb out of Mbeya browsing through tea and banana plantations. Mbeya is one of the few Malaria free areas in Tanzania because of the altitude it stands at, 1900 meters. But to get out of Mbeya, we had to climb to 2400 meters going through thick mist and switch backs. It felt like riding in the French Alps on a cold summer morning. Soon enough, we were above the clouds and as the sun unleashed its burning powers at us, within a few minutes the temperature soared to over 30 degrees with a 100% humidity in the air. Everybody stopped in the climb to take pictures and remove the long sleeve shirts. In Africa, riding conditions can change so drastically within minutes from cold misty to burning heat. I had planned for getting through the clouds before putting on the sun cream. This is part of a daily ritual by now. In the morning as you prepare yourself and your bike, two creams are not to be forgotten, the shammy cream for your bud and the sun cream for your skin. You forget one of these two and you pay for days... But today, I decided to put the sun cream after my climb since the sweat makes it very unpleasant. It was underestimating how soon the sun would hit us. So, half way through the climb, I had to get off my bike and go through the process of covering every exposed inch of my body to the sun with cream. The problem with sweat and sun cream is that the two tend to melt into one salty liquid that burns, especially the one that runs down your face into your eyes.<br />
<br />
When you stop half way through such a long climb, you lose your rhythm and I was quite unhappy with my decision not to apply the sun cream before leaving; I won't do that again. <br />
<br />
There so many details that you have to remember each and every morning before starting your ride, from loading your energy drinks into the water bottles (that you have hopefully remembered to clean immediately after arrival yesterday, otherwise there is rot waiting for you in there) to resetting you bike computer (which you have also hopefully remembered to charge last night), to having taken down the directions for the day and so on and so on. That is why the morning routine at TDA takes an hour and a half. From packing your tent to queuing for breakfast and queuing for loading your bags in the trucks. If you wake up late, then you are in a hurry and then you forget something. This morning, I forgot my cycling gloves.... Stupid, but painful as the result is blisters... Yeah, typical story, I misplaced them, and they ended up in the wrong bag and by the time I went to the start line, I realised they were missing. Too late to go back to the truck and reopen my locker, the trucks are also on tight schedules and were about to leave...<br />
<br />
Once we reached the top of the climb; we rolled up and down for kilometers passing endless tea plantations. This is the main road linking Dar es Salaam to the other countries situated south of Tanzania, so it is like a giant open air fruit supermarket where farmers display all their product along the road waiting for buyers to stop and load their merchandise off to the big city. I have never seen such a display of bananas in my life. I didn't even know they came in so many shapes and colours. I even saw some purple red ones. They stack them next to the road in huge piles waiting for buyers.<br />
<br />
After reaching the top of a last hill, suddenly I could not believe what was lying in front of my eyes! There it was, the enormous Rift Valley with a giant lake at its bottom 1300 meters bellow me... Lake Malawi! My first view of lake Malawi will be stuck in my mind for ever. It was one of these moments in life that gives you goose pimples. Wao! Africa had once again managed to bring tears of joy into my eyes. I had pedaled 7000 kilometers to get here and I was proud, I was happy, I was overwhelmed by the satisfaction of having sweated my way from Cairo to see this. Lake Malawi, the legendary lake Malawi.... Here I was, riding bicycle heading downhill at full speed enjoying the warm wind blowing at me and feeling full of joy and excitement. <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>One last stroke of pedal and we already were reaching the border post... Malawi here we are! </strong><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7S9lbliv8I/AAAAAAAAEyE/YEl3MPVYXtU/s1600/malawi+043+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7S9lbliv8I/AAAAAAAAEyE/YEl3MPVYXtU/s400/malawi+043+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Me in a tea plantation on the last hills of south Tanzania.<br />
We can now see the norhtern shore of lake Malawi in the<br />
far distance behind me<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7S99tV0mCI/AAAAAAAAEyM/zakMzhMo_Jw/s1600/malawi+035+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7S99tV0mCI/AAAAAAAAEyM/zakMzhMo_Jw/s400/malawi+035+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Tea plantations are covering the hills of this hot and humid region of southern Tanzania<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7S-LnsBUsI/AAAAAAAAEyU/47MRkDT-sd8/s1600/malawi+027+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7S-LnsBUsI/AAAAAAAAEyU/47MRkDT-sd8/s400/malawi+027+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7S-TMVU9cI/AAAAAAAAEyc/XIfezJx3iiI/s1600/malawi+028+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7S-TMVU9cI/AAAAAAAAEyc/XIfezJx3iiI/s400/malawi+028+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> When it is not tea, it is bananas here. This is the main road to<br />
Dar es Salaam, so the farmers can sell their bananas directly <br />
along this busy road<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7S_AYrhHiI/AAAAAAAAEyk/JfFosluX3SE/s1600/malawi+022+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7S_AYrhHiI/AAAAAAAAEyk/JfFosluX3SE/s400/malawi+022+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Not quite sure what was the danger, but I am happy to leave the "danger zone".... <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7S_L3GOiFI/AAAAAAAAEys/iY-d4ENVRWY/s1600/malawi+021+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7S_L3GOiFI/AAAAAAAAEys/iY-d4ENVRWY/s400/malawi+021+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Maize drying in the sun<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7S_XpT1gyI/AAAAAAAAEy0/4W1oqYW43-Q/s400/malawi+018+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></div> We saw this everywhere along the road, women scrapping<br />
the maize grains of the stems by hand<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7S_8h84PBI/AAAAAAAAEzE/iicxOMuPgeU/s1600/malawi+015+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7S_8h84PBI/AAAAAAAAEzE/iicxOMuPgeU/s400/malawi+015+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Africa and its happy faces.... everywhere....<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7TANuSb6AI/AAAAAAAAEzM/8lIk4PTMnB0/s1600/malawi+011+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7TANuSb6AI/AAAAAAAAEzM/8lIk4PTMnB0/s400/malawi+011+(Medium).jpg" width="225" /></a></div> Here it is, the fibre optic cable that will change<br />
the course of communication in this region<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7TAtfGBAVI/AAAAAAAAEzU/ur6VG3KRj-s/s1600/malawi+009+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7TAtfGBAVI/AAAAAAAAEzU/ur6VG3KRj-s/s400/malawi+009+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> We have been riding along this massively long trench for 3 days now,<br />
and everywhere, the same, hundreds of cheap hands digging in front <br />
of amused children<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7TA9ZqCEsI/AAAAAAAAEzc/LIYN_0AzPfU/s1600/malawi+007+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7TA9ZqCEsI/AAAAAAAAEzc/LIYN_0AzPfU/s400/malawi+007+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> OK, guys, next time your children complain about getting more<br />
fancy toys, show them this picture....<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7TBNjx05XI/AAAAAAAAEzk/xPfK3frNdrk/s1600/malawi+045+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7TBNjx05XI/AAAAAAAAEzk/xPfK3frNdrk/s400/malawi+045+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Tanzania, beautiful Tanzania, all the way to the border we have just had<br />
amazing landscapes... Lake Malawi in the horizon and a new country <br />
waiting for TDA riders...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7TCppT3RkI/AAAAAAAAEzs/86OorL1SkwM/s1600/malawi+166+(Medium)+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7TCppT3RkI/AAAAAAAAEzs/86OorL1SkwM/s400/malawi+166+(Medium)+(2).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> These blisters are from a beetle called the "blister beetle" <br />
It pisses on your ankles and creates this skin reaction.... <br />
Within a few days the blister eventualy pops and leaves<br />
nasty skin damages...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7TC959udeI/AAAAAAAAEz0/U2QHxtyRGFo/s1600/malawi+163+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7TC959udeI/AAAAAAAAEz0/U2QHxtyRGFo/s400/malawi+163+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> So, you here is the mysterious blister beetle victim identified... <br />
he took a picture of himself with his wife in the background... Thanks Andre....Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-19289809614704614222010-03-30T16:29:00.000+02:002010-03-30T16:29:54.943+02:00LAST DAY IN TANZANIAAs I am spending my last night in Tanzania, time has come again to draw a few lines of conclusion about the fifth country of the tour. Well, as you have seen on this blog, Tanzania is a beautiful country. It is the Africa you see on National Geographic reportage's. I enjoyed Tanzania and have definitely added the "must come back" mark next to it. Tanzania was a very positive surprise, it gave me a good impression. I think that it has great potential for future development and for anybody interested in a visit, I would recommend not to miss the central part of the country which offers some of the most magnificent landscapes in Africa.<br />
<br />
The disparities between rich and poor are big here and it is definitely an issue, just like it is in most African countries. I was impressed to see that the kids we met were are all going to school, all wearing clean uniforms. I was also impressed by the kindness of Tanzanians, especially in the rural areas. <br />
Tanzania suffers from a lack of infrastructures, but roads and buildings are being erected all over the places we went through, and a fair amount of foreign investment seems to be taking place. The touristic region around Arusha are already looking very fast growing.<br />
Over the last 3 days, we have been yo-yoing between highlands plateau situated at an altitude of 1900 meters and large flat valleys lying at about 800 meters bellow that. So, in cycling terms, it means we have gone up and down and up and down, and .... The valleys are hot and humid with plenty of exotic fruit farms as well as rice plantations while the highlands are much colder but also very humid, mostly covered with planted forest made of Pine trees and Eucalyptus trees.<br />
<br />
All the riders who had left us in Arusha for holidays in Zanzibar or for climbing Kilimanjaro rejoined us in Iringa. Then we were told that 11 new sectional riders were also joining, so it means that the group is now about 80 people TDA staff and local riders included... So we went from a reduced team of about 40 riders to a super size group of over 70 riders since we left Iringa. This means that the queues for lockers are now worst than ever. The new sectional are much slower than us at loading their lockers. We have 2 and a half month practise whilst these guys are just as efficient as we were in Cairo... The holiday makers who went to Zanzibar for 10 days are all looking brown and fat. It is amazing how quickly they have managed to put some weight back on, whilst the rest of us has lost further weight in this very hard and long 7 days off road section.<br />
<br />
This fifth section of TDA is the shortest and easiest of all. It will take us to the capital of Malawi, Lilongwe. It is fully paved and does not have any major difficulties. So I have to say that after what we have gone through so far, the first 3 days of this new section have felt like days off. Good, because my knees are still a problem and I need to take it easy. Well, even if I took it easy, I made it to camp so early that I had time for afternoon naps, a new undiscovered thing for me. We are doing days of 100 to 120 km with around 1000 meters of climbing each day, but it feels so easy after last week.Riding on tar is really so much easier than on corrugated dirt.<br />
Last night at camp I managed to injure myself in the most stupid way. One thing about riding through these regions of Africa is that if you hurt yourself, even a small cut, it takes weeks to heal. Some riders are still wearing plasters from injuries they got over a month ago. So you don't want to have any bruises or skin cuts. That is why I have Ben so careful while riding my bike and have been fortunate not to have any falls so far. Well, last night while we were have our locker 9 meeting, I was using my toilet seat as a chair since the TDA is short of them, especially with the new enlarged group and as I bended forward to get a whisky shot from Tony, my seat collapsed. I managed to save the whiskey, but not my right achille on which the plastic toilet seat top fell with me on it. As I stood up, I saw blood spilling out of the achille and a large piece of skin hanging out of it... What a stupid way to injure myself.... Anyway, I got the TDA nurse to patch it with an antibiotic cream and a large piece of plaster. My problem over the next few days will be to prevent any infection, and it is not really nice as the missing piece of skin is exactly where the back of my cycling shoe comes in contact with the foot.<br />
Tonight was great, we are in Mbewa, the last city before the Malawian border and because we arrived early, it has almost been like a rest day. Ruben, a young and sympathetic German rider had his first race day victory yesterday and celebrated in style tonight by inviting everybody for free beers. Needless to say that we all accepted his offer...<br />
The kids along the road are funny in this region, like everywhere, they all scream "Mzungu, Mzungu" when they see us, but they also try a few words of English they have learn at school. You can see that the paved road immediately has an influence on people. As we rode over 700 km on dirt roads, the kids we met along were shy and rarely engaged verbally with us whilst here along this main road they are totally different. They scream at us and are so much more extroverts. You can see what they are been taught at school as entire villages say "good morning teacher" as we pass, whilst others say "hello madame" or "hello daddy" (he, he... I can explain that one...)<br />
The Muslim influence is also being felt here in the south, many adults answer "Salam" instead of "jumbo"<br />
OK, bedtime for me now, more from Malawi next.... Tomorrow we are descending back to almost sea level... First time since we left Cairo... We are probably going to feel supercharged with so much oxygen in our lungs...<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IFZ-SjGsI/AAAAAAAAEwk/-LDqdhn7RVo/s1600/tanzanai+546+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IFZ-SjGsI/AAAAAAAAEwk/-LDqdhn7RVo/s400/tanzanai+546+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> This region of southern Tanzania is producing rice<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IGCDgYhEI/AAAAAAAAEws/XJvuTeyy2ow/s1600/tanzanai+542+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IGCDgYhEI/AAAAAAAAEws/XJvuTeyy2ow/s400/tanzanai+542+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Beautiful pyramide shaped hills are commun in this part of Tanzania<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IGNg7IU7I/AAAAAAAAEw0/elY_3FOSBgY/s1600/tanzanai+535+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IGNg7IU7I/AAAAAAAAEw0/elY_3FOSBgY/s400/tanzanai+535+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Kids fishing in a small stream.. They actualy caugtht a catfish in front <br />
of me with this small net<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IH-6IU-FI/AAAAAAAAEw8/GNmu7MqaDX4/s1600/tanzanai+534+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IH-6IU-FI/AAAAAAAAEw8/GNmu7MqaDX4/s400/tanzanai+534+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> This is Wilson, he is one of the hundreds of workers hand digging this <br />
1000 km long chanel which will host a fibre optic cable for high speed<br />
internet.Wilson gets paid 2000 shillings a day for this job, which is the <br />
equivalent of 1 euro...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IIueYt5sI/AAAAAAAAExE/VgvBPNfOtso/s1600/tanzanai+520+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IIueYt5sI/AAAAAAAAExE/VgvBPNfOtso/s400/tanzanai+520+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Small shops along the road<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7II6yMtNEI/AAAAAAAAExM/pddfjmt59yw/s1600/tanzanai+518+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7II6yMtNEI/AAAAAAAAExM/pddfjmt59yw/s400/tanzanai+518+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Today we are climbing back to these highlands plateaux<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IJE6-dPZI/AAAAAAAAExU/V10kJrd6XlU/s1600/tanzanai+503+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IJE6-dPZI/AAAAAAAAExU/V10kJrd6XlU/s400/tanzanai+503+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Gabriele at a coke stop entertaining the local kids<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IJUAV5u_I/AAAAAAAAExc/cZHIT0fmwFs/s1600/tanzanai+500+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IJUAV5u_I/AAAAAAAAExc/cZHIT0fmwFs/s400/tanzanai+500+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Me and the local kids at one of the many coke stops of the day<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IJgNz2UxI/AAAAAAAAExk/Y09C36R_Ilw/s1600/tanzanai+498+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IJgNz2UxI/AAAAAAAAExk/Y09C36R_Ilw/s400/tanzanai+498+(Medium).jpg" width="225" /></a></div> Hardy smiling as always<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IJrDWeiUI/AAAAAAAAExs/YYUnUukY1c4/s1600/tanzanai+495+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IJrDWeiUI/AAAAAAAAExs/YYUnUukY1c4/s400/tanzanai+495+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> As you can see on this photo, it not just coke stops any more,<br />
as we are getting closer to South Africa, things are slowly <br />
improving... Here we even got cold beers, so we were not<br />
shy despite the last 20 km to go and a few hills before camp...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IKdro6H4I/AAAAAAAAEx0/4x6n33Q240k/s1600/tanzanai+491+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IKdro6H4I/AAAAAAAAEx0/4x6n33Q240k/s400/tanzanai+491+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> The brotherhood of locker 9 in full action at camp celebrating<br />
Marcel's birthday....<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IKvY7g8GI/AAAAAAAAEx8/icreeMj7o1o/s1600/tanzanai+490+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S7IKvY7g8GI/AAAAAAAAEx8/icreeMj7o1o/s400/tanzanai+490+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Gabriele arriving at todays forest campJaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-87455840810826111572010-03-26T20:52:00.000+01:002010-03-26T20:52:12.208+01:00REST DAY IN IRINGARest day in Iringa.... Finally! It has been a long and hard 7 days stretch on the bikes. This also marks the end of stage 4 of Tour D'Afrique 2010. 4 more to go...<br />
<br />
<br />
We have completed the longest ride on dirt of the TDA, covering almost 700 km without stepping on tar, except for a few kilometers as we crossed the capital city Dongola, where the main streets were paved. What an awesome ride it has been! I am not sure if the exhaustion feeling is gonna clear before the excitement fades about how intense these past 7 riding days have been. All I can say is, we are all tired but happy. Happy to have discovered a part of Tanzania completely untapped by tourism and yet so beautiful and so real. We have had an overdose of great landscapes, of baobab trees, of lush vegetation and of "Mzungu" screaming children...<br />
<br />
Riding on dirt is twice as hard as on pavement as a rule of thumb. You spend at least twice the energy when tackling dirt, but when it is very technical and full of soft sand, this is even more. So the last 700 km have put our already tired bodies through new levels of strain. I could see yesterday as we all made it to the finish line at the Danish school in Iringa that this 24 hour rest was more than needed. <br />
<br />
As I was riding yesterday, I thought about my unexpected knee problems and I came to realise that there is a rational explanation behind this. It did not make sense to me that I got a tendonitis after riding almost 10 weeks. By now, the knees are well trained and should not give any problems, but the fact is that after riding 6000 km we are all super fit. Normally if you push too hard while practising any sport, your heart rate shoots up and it forces you to slow down acting as a security valve. But if I think about the day when I hurt my knees, I could hardly believe myself how fast I was going. I was really flying over these hills on a technical terrain and this for over a hundred kilometers.... By now, I am really fit and I can push my riding so hard over such a long distance that other body parts are now giving up before my heart rate would slow me down. I will have to keep it mind over the remaining 5700 km. Our bodies have gone through massive changes in a relatively short time, from weight loss to fitness gain. It is important to listen to it more and to make sure that it remains in a good shape if we want to make it to Cape Town. <br />
Talking of weight loss, today I had a funny thought. I found a small coffee shop run by an English woman here in Iringa who made real espressos. She also stocked some European magazines and just about every one of them had something about how to lose weight on their front cover... He he... My biggest problem is to regain weight right now.... I wonder how big a market there would be for a magazine who would advertise "gain 10 kgs in 6 weeks" on its front page.... I already know 60 people who would buy it...<br />
<br />
There are many things Africa is short of, and one of them is a decent bicycle shop. Since Cairo, we have not encountered one... There are simply no bicycle shops on the continent (except for South Africa). What I mean with bicycle shop is like the ones we are used to in Europe where you can get spares, tubes, water bottles and so on. Firstly African bicycles are all single speed bicycles and all imported from China or India. so the so called bicycle shops here only stock very basic parts that don't fit our highly sophisticated machines... Even such a simple thing such as a water bottle is simply impossible to find. Nairobi was the only city we came across that had a shop which stocked some spares and the 15 water bottles they had on the shelves were sold within a few minutes of opening to the few TDA riders who made it there first...<br />
<br />
So I have organised for some extra tubes and spares like cycling gloves, helmet padding and so on to be shipped to me to Iringa via DHL. I have been really looking forward for this as I have no more tubes, my last spare one is already severely patched, my gloves are so worn out that I am getting blisters on my fingers and my helmet padding is also in such a bad shape that the helmet is starting to cut through my skin. So I organised for my office in South Africa to send me all these items to Iringa via DHL. We have a rest day here, so it would give me plenty of time to get the parcel.... Except that I was thinking too rational, too European may be... Of course here things work differently. When I went to collect my parcel at the local DHL office, the hard reality of African bureaucracy and inefficiency hit me. Let me describe a bit this "office" where it is an absolute shame for a company like DHL to have their name painted on the front door. A dirty room completely empty with one run down desk and a woman sitting behind it in the corner. One shelve behind her had exactly one parcel on it and it definitely did not look like it could be mine as it was completely flat.The woman did not even bother respond to my "jumbo" greeting and kept on looking at the floor as if somebody had just passed away. As I became more insistent about getting attention, she finally gave me that look which did not make me feel any welcome.... I had a shipment number on my cellphone which I proudly showed her... She looked at it and just replied "Not here!" and went back into her "watch the floor" motion...<br />
<br />
By then my sense of humour had completely vanished and I exploded shouting at her "Well find it if it is not here, you are DHL, you are supposed to deliver this packet to me!" She got a bit of a fright and stood up. She shouted back "Not here; come back tomorrow!" I could not believe what I was witnessing here. What a pathetic service. Anyway by then the woman got a bit agitated and pulled out a dirty file from her desk drawer. It contained hundreds of handwritten telephone numbers. Since they were randomly written, it took her more than 5 minutes to find the one of her own head office in Dar es Salaam. After several attempts she just shouted at me again "Telephone not working, come back tomorrow..." <br />
<br />
By then I realised that this was not gonna get anywhere and I took over. I called South Africa from my cell phone, asked Antigone, the PA at Junk Mail head office to trace the packet from there. Within minutes, we managed to find it lying at the customs in Dar Es Salaam because there are import duties in Tanzania on bicycle spares... Customs said I needed to come in personally with my passport to do the duty declaration and pay them... Well, that was the end of me hoping to get this parcel. Dar es salaam is a full driving day from here and there is no ways I am gonna get this packet. So I will have to use my broken gloves and live on one patched spare tube for a while. Next big city is the capital of Malawi, so I asked Antigone to repurchase everything in SA once again and send me a new parcel to Malawi. Such is life, and compared to the many challenges I have already overcome to get here, this DHL story is just adding fun to the adventure. That's how I am taking things now: "Hakuna matata" ...<br />
<br />
Iringa is definitely not the prettiest city I have been in, but it is a rest day and on rest days, you do two things, you wash and clean everything you own and you eat as much as you can. For me, there is one more task, I do a big blog update and try to do a bit of "city reportage" showing you guys some of these places you would never come across otherwise. Iringa is a major commercial center for this region and is therefore buzzing with life. Merchants of all kind of goodies are filling up the busy streets. We are now 400 km north of the Malawian border. Since we are back on pavement, it will mean two things; more traffic, much more actually as we are going to get on a major road linking north to south and longer stages in terms of distance.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60IEnuortI/AAAAAAAAEsc/k-FzEkEbUps/s1600/tanzanai+447+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60IEnuortI/AAAAAAAAEsc/k-FzEkEbUps/s400/tanzanai+447+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div>After 7 days of very hard riding and 700 km on the dirt we finally get back on pavement. It was time, our bodies and bikes are in need of a rest<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60INcoaUcI/AAAAAAAAEsk/m8c2gR6b9O0/s1600/tanzanai+446+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60INcoaUcI/AAAAAAAAEsk/m8c2gR6b9O0/s400/tanzanai+446+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Jos and a Tanzanian rider at a coke stop<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60IYeBYB8I/AAAAAAAAEss/HFIQ1RXrnzE/s1600/tanzanai+445+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60IYeBYB8I/AAAAAAAAEss/HFIQ1RXrnzE/s400/tanzanai+445+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Jos investigating about the meat prices<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60Irpi3upI/AAAAAAAAEs0/LJnq1N0-Bzg/s1600/tanzanai+440+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60Irpi3upI/AAAAAAAAEs0/LJnq1N0-Bzg/s400/tanzanai+440+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Even the butcher has an Obama poster. We have seen Obama posters and bags since Ethiopia. He seems to be more populare here than in the US...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60JCHWQzaI/AAAAAAAAEs8/PrqLjoLhcAI/s1600/tanzanai+435+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60JCHWQzaI/AAAAAAAAEs8/PrqLjoLhcAI/s400/tanzanai+435+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Knut and Hilda fixing a flat<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60JMci-FMI/AAAAAAAAEtE/bSFX20wRc2o/s1600/tanzanai+434+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60JMci-FMI/AAAAAAAAEtE/bSFX20wRc2o/s400/tanzanai+434+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> The 20 km time trial climb on the dirt after last night's rain did not do any good to our bikes.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60JVtTvfOI/AAAAAAAAEtM/Hd4sdCAoXjs/s1600/tanzanai+433+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60JVtTvfOI/AAAAAAAAEtM/Hd4sdCAoXjs/s400/tanzanai+433+(Medium).jpg" width="225" /></a></div> Daniel after he finished his 20 km time trial section.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60JwsTvJ4I/AAAAAAAAEtU/8TViNMEnr3Q/s1600/tanzanai+427+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60JwsTvJ4I/AAAAAAAAEtU/8TViNMEnr3Q/s400/tanzanai+427+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Simon at camp before the start of the time trial, fixing a slow puncture<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60J6tM5zNI/AAAAAAAAEtc/c2DvtVIJ7z4/s1600/tanzanai+425+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60J6tM5zNI/AAAAAAAAEtc/c2DvtVIJ7z4/s400/tanzanai+425+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Eric at camp fixing .... a flat....<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60KENMaobI/AAAAAAAAEtk/BtAmsOgO0tM/s1600/tanzanai+421+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60KENMaobI/AAAAAAAAEtk/BtAmsOgO0tM/s400/tanzanai+421+(Medium).jpg" width="225" /></a></div> Frans preparing for the time trial, which he won<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60KVOD1TLI/AAAAAAAAEts/S7F3w-hkCcA/s1600/tanzanai+416+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60KVOD1TLI/AAAAAAAAEts/S7F3w-hkCcA/s400/tanzanai+416+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Jos fixing... a puncture...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60KojATDDI/AAAAAAAAEt0/2VRW684AiE8/s1600/tanzanai+415+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60KojATDDI/AAAAAAAAEt0/2VRW684AiE8/s400/tanzanai+415+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Camp yesterday was in a great setting. I did my internet connection using my toilet seat as a table.... <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60LG_n6EgI/AAAAAAAAEt8/-90exClfl_E/s1600/tanzanai+406+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60LG_n6EgI/AAAAAAAAEt8/-90exClfl_E/s400/tanzanai+406+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> The afternoon section was very hilly again yesterday, but so beautiful<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60LmXXR_XI/AAAAAAAAEuE/TLWz3u-Ihu8/s1600/tanzanai+404+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60LmXXR_XI/AAAAAAAAEuE/TLWz3u-Ihu8/s400/tanzanai+404+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The morning part of the ride was flat but had a lot of thick sand making it hard to ride. Here, the TDA lunch truck passing us<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60LxYpVFgI/AAAAAAAAEuM/bm7ODj8tHwU/s1600/tanzanai+400+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60LxYpVFgI/AAAAAAAAEuM/bm7ODj8tHwU/s400/tanzanai+400+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Anke at a coke stop enjoying the local sofa...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60L8VNTOZI/AAAAAAAAEuU/Uay0xqWISM4/s1600/tanzanai+425+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60L8VNTOZI/AAAAAAAAEuU/Uay0xqWISM4/s400/tanzanai+425+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> The city of Iringa, not really a world beauty, but this is where we will spend our rest day<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60M69ukHaI/AAAAAAAAEuk/ogG5Hxngq6Y/s1600/Copie+de+Copie+de+tanzanai+389+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60M69ukHaI/AAAAAAAAEuk/ogG5Hxngq6Y/s400/Copie+de+Copie+de+tanzanai+389+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div>This dam produces hydroelectic power and is well guarded. We were warned not to take any pictures of the dam as they apparently can shoot you if you proceed...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60Msk7xKQI/AAAAAAAAEuc/5dNxEOMZMpU/s1600/Copie+de+Copie+de+tanzanai+376+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60Msk7xKQI/AAAAAAAAEuc/5dNxEOMZMpU/s400/Copie+de+Copie+de+tanzanai+376+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Typical mud house from this region of central Tanzania surrouded by beautiful baobab trees.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60NH4DCNsI/AAAAAAAAEus/8vXnuAN7ziE/s1600/Copie+de+Copie+de+tanzanai+365+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60NH4DCNsI/AAAAAAAAEus/8vXnuAN7ziE/s400/Copie+de+Copie+de+tanzanai+365+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> TDA riders look tiny as they pass by these giant trees<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60NXBJSiqI/AAAAAAAAEu0/V579qbwXzDs/s1600/Copie+de+Copie+de+tanzanai+363+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60NXBJSiqI/AAAAAAAAEu0/V579qbwXzDs/s400/Copie+de+Copie+de+tanzanai+363+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
Most people here use bicycles and it makes it easy to meet them. Some, like this young fellow ride with us for a few kilometers before dropping back. With our high tech bikes, we are much faster on such terrain<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60NkhpxOII/AAAAAAAAEu8/XHmLgQ6hjbY/s1600/Copie+de+Copie+de+tanzanai+362+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60NkhpxOII/AAAAAAAAEu8/XHmLgQ6hjbY/s400/Copie+de+Copie+de+tanzanai+362+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> A nice flat portion with endless baobab trees along the road. What a great ride!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60N-_AjyhI/AAAAAAAAEvE/fxYjz_mg7-4/s1600/tanzanai+487+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60N-_AjyhI/AAAAAAAAEvE/fxYjz_mg7-4/s400/tanzanai+487+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> This guy is making flip flops out of used truck tyres. I bough a pair for 1 Euro<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60OH9sh67I/AAAAAAAAEvM/ppxbJ0Ufd0w/s1600/tanzanai+484+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60OH9sh67I/AAAAAAAAEvM/ppxbJ0Ufd0w/s400/tanzanai+484+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Delivering bananas the hard way...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60OT5hFWJI/AAAAAAAAEvU/4oSA0vaKpsY/s1600/tanzanai+482+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60OT5hFWJI/AAAAAAAAEvU/4oSA0vaKpsY/s400/tanzanai+482+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div>This is a typical bicycle spare shop, we have seen plenty of these all along our way, but unfortunately, none of these spares fit our bikes, not even the tubes<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60Ofml1zXI/AAAAAAAAEvc/UqkuxveSD4U/s1600/tanzanai+480+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60Ofml1zXI/AAAAAAAAEvc/UqkuxveSD4U/s400/tanzanai+480+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Got a virus? Call these guys...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60Os-GDsQI/AAAAAAAAEvk/gIp5NlDo098/s1600/tanzanai+478+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60Os-GDsQI/AAAAAAAAEvk/gIp5NlDo098/s400/tanzanai+478+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Broom delivery<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60O6RAB5DI/AAAAAAAAEvs/t0uhV2bM92U/s1600/tanzanai+477+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60O6RAB5DI/AAAAAAAAEvs/t0uhV2bM92U/s400/tanzanai+477+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> We have excatly the same mushrooms growing in our backyard in Finland.....Cantarelles<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60PV8UGAdI/AAAAAAAAEv0/JqLZA-3ivwU/s1600/tanzanai+476+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60PV8UGAdI/AAAAAAAAEv0/JqLZA-3ivwU/s400/tanzanai+476+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60Pf9JfZ0I/AAAAAAAAEv8/9Xcv7WTa52E/s1600/tanzanai+471+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60Pf9JfZ0I/AAAAAAAAEv8/9Xcv7WTa52E/s400/tanzanai+471+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60PpkBc2AI/AAAAAAAAEwE/jOXl9mISWg0/s1600/tanzanai+470+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60PpkBc2AI/AAAAAAAAEwE/jOXl9mISWg0/s400/tanzanai+470+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> The fruit and vegies covered market of Iri<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60P0TibR-I/AAAAAAAAEwM/n1LEDss3E7w/s1600/tanzanai+474+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60P0TibR-I/AAAAAAAAEwM/n1LEDss3E7w/s400/tanzanai+474+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Small dry sardines are sold by mountain high piles here at the Iringa covered market<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60QB-RY5hI/AAAAAAAAEwU/dIgvgcJiE9E/s1600/tanzanai+460+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60QB-RY5hI/AAAAAAAAEwU/dIgvgcJiE9E/s400/tanzanai+460+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60QLwNJTrI/AAAAAAAAEwc/Cj3l7louCLM/s1600/tanzanai+463+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" nt="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S60QLwNJTrI/AAAAAAAAEwc/Cj3l7louCLM/s400/tanzanai+463+(Medium).jpg" width="400" /></a></div> All fish are sold dry here, probably the safest way to keep itJaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-14029252722196172492010-03-23T21:34:00.000+01:002010-03-23T21:34:45.317+01:00ONE OF THE MOST DIFFUCULT DAYS....Dear Readers, <br />
I am (meaning now Jaana) in South of Spain in the seminar and there is "not really a access" to the Internet here except for me to do this blog, I am so grateful to Paul, the owner of this place giving me a possibility the sneak in his office every evening to get a Internet connection to update this blog. So a special thanks to Paul, letting me carry on doing the blog that has become quite important to some and for others just a good night story before sleep, but I think for all of us who are reading this, it is a way of travelling through Africa and following the remarkable journey of Gerald and his friends. Thank you also for all your supporting messages...<br />
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Hi guys, tonight's text will be short.<br />
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I had the most difficult day of the tour so far and I need to recover, so not much time to compose here. I woke up this morning with a strong pain in both knees. Tendinitis... The thing you want to avoid at any price. I knew I was in trouble as even getting out of bed was hurting. So, not much choice but to get on with it and try not to damage the knees further. I rode too hard yesterday, and this morning I am paying the price. A bit stupid of me, we were told that there were hotel rooms at the camp, so I pushed real hard to get there early as there is always a limited supply of rooms. I got a room, but it ended up being worst than my tent. It was so hot in there I could not fall asleep and the mosquito net hanging over my bed had so many holes in it, that it actually did a great job at retaining the mozzies inside after they had taken their share of my blood. The shower did not have hot water and it spilled water all over except inside the shower itself.... The toilet was a real flush toilet except that it kept on flushing all the time... Ultra luxury, they had a TV in the room with 2 channels tuned. A local one in Swahili and a Chinese one... Hum... The Chinese again...<br />
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Anyway, back on the road I was hurting badly and unfortunately there is nothing much you can do with knee pain when you need to cycle 95 km on a sandy dirt road.The best strategy was to ride slowly at high cadence which I did. Andre and Michelle, two South African riders saw me in pain and stopped as they passed me. Andre pulled some Voltaren pills out of his camelback and gave them to me. It was nice to see how concern the other riders of TDA were and how they tried to help. The Voltaren pills did help a bit and I could cycle a bit faster later that day. But as you know about Murphy's law, bad news often happen is series, I also had my worst puncture day ever! I had a total of 6 punctures today, yes 6. Imagine that up to now, I only had 2 and that was over 6000 km. I managed to get 6 in 45 km this afternoon. I only realised that it was not bad luck, but some of the worst thorns ever on the route when I finally made it to camp after a 10 hours ride... Needless to say, I was last by far. I was surprised to see how many people were fixing tubes and tyres at camp, until I heard that just about every rider had had similar experiences. Some even run out of patches and had to push their bikes to camp.... He he, so at least, that made me feel a bit better. It was not bad luck, but simply super thorn territory here. I am using special tubes that have a green slime inside them that is supposed to seal any puncture... Well, the manufacturers should come and test these tubes here in central Tanzania. I have never seen anything like that. My tubes just spilled that green stuff out and could not help these super thorns... So I run out of tubes, and had no choice but start patching them. Not easy under this heat and sand. I had to use plenty of saliva to spot the numerous holes and soon my tubes looked like they had been hit by a chicken box infection...<br />
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It was a relief to see the finish line flag, after such a challenging day. I was exhausted and even dehydrated as I run out of water since I did not expect to be on the road for so long.<br />
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Well, at least mission accomplished, I managed to preserve my EFI status and I think that I also managed to keep my knees in a stable condition. I have been lying inside my tent and I put some cream on them. I hope the night will do them good. We still have 2 hard off road days before we will enjoy a full day rest in Iringa. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kiApGDa5I/AAAAAAAAEqc/oFeugKAKhv0/s1600-h/tanzanai+307+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kiApGDa5I/AAAAAAAAEqc/oFeugKAKhv0/s400/tanzanai+307+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Charcoal sellers<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kiKRKMPHI/AAAAAAAAEqk/1NNMb6CIOVQ/s1600-h/tanzanai+302+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kiKRKMPHI/AAAAAAAAEqk/1NNMb6CIOVQ/s400/tanzanai+302+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="225" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kiUYT9cxI/AAAAAAAAEqs/UlTsAPMHhgc/s1600-h/tanzanai+300+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kiUYT9cxI/AAAAAAAAEqs/UlTsAPMHhgc/s400/tanzanai+300+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> A 100% wood self made push bike<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kidqv04cI/AAAAAAAAEq0/9DGnwdiAkD0/s1600-h/tanzanai+294+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kidqv04cI/AAAAAAAAEq0/9DGnwdiAkD0/s400/tanzanai+294+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Lots of thick sand on this road, making it really hard on the legs.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kinp3T_cI/AAAAAAAAEq8/OSouoPfdllI/s1600-h/tanzanai+283+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kinp3T_cI/AAAAAAAAEq8/OSouoPfdllI/s400/tanzanai+283+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="225" /></a></div> Another way to use leg power is for pumping water. This is for irrigating the wineyard<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6ki1eoGhVI/AAAAAAAAErE/M-RH83JsskA/s1600-h/tanzanai+281+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6ki1eoGhVI/AAAAAAAAErE/M-RH83JsskA/s400/tanzanai+281+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Did you know that they make wine here inTanzania?... Well, now you do...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kjBt8p8CI/AAAAAAAAErM/ZxPtg9h8HF4/s1600-h/tanzanai+317+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kjBt8p8CI/AAAAAAAAErM/ZxPtg9h8HF4/s400/tanzanai+317+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Great landscapes again today as we head south<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kjWX0HzKI/AAAAAAAAErU/lOKhpuTt2Ng/s1600-h/tanzanai+352+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kjWX0HzKI/AAAAAAAAErU/lOKhpuTt2Ng/s400/tanzanai+352+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div>a typical house in this region of Tanzania, made of mud walls; The roof is covered with soil on which plants grow, a perfect way to insulate from the heat.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kjjx24AfI/AAAAAAAAErc/UqsSNM_N0_g/s1600-h/tanzanai+351+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kjjx24AfI/AAAAAAAAErc/UqsSNM_N0_g/s400/tanzanai+351+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div>I was intrigued by the blue writing on this small hut, so I investigated... It is actually a paid toilet... 100 shillings (10 US cents) for access. Quite funny that somebody has started such a business in the middle of deep rural Tanzania...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kjztMmwII/AAAAAAAAErk/RS2TdlZ4UV4/s1600-h/tanzanai+349+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kjztMmwII/AAAAAAAAErk/RS2TdlZ4UV4/s400/tanzanai+349+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Watermelon seller along the national road we are using. I bought one, but it was not very good<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kkACdAKUI/AAAAAAAAErs/tXAJZohVSBs/s1600-h/tanzanai+343+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kkACdAKUI/AAAAAAAAErs/tXAJZohVSBs/s400/tanzanai+343+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Typical small villlage along the main road between Arusha and Iringa. None of them have electricity and it means hot Pepsis for us...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kkbV3SFZI/AAAAAAAAEr0/IVYWCN6ZkCY/s1600-h/tanzanai+333+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kkbV3SFZI/AAAAAAAAEr0/IVYWCN6ZkCY/s400/tanzanai+333+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> TDA riders at one of the hot Pepsi stops along the road<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kkrXRnxPI/AAAAAAAAEr8/K-zjoSE125s/s1600-h/tanzanai+326+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kkrXRnxPI/AAAAAAAAEr8/K-zjoSE125s/s400/tanzanai+326+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6kk0SnQ1cI/AAAAAAAAEsE/QVHnr-KwiMc/s400/tanzanai+325+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></div>At the lunch truck some women had gathered around our crowd as it is always the case. I used the opportunity to take a few close shots of some of them<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6klBr3npyI/AAAAAAAAEsM/2jbGo9-ry94/s1600-h/tanzanai+355+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6klBr3npyI/AAAAAAAAEsM/2jbGo9-ry94/s400/tanzanai+355+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> This young and happy fellow was walking around camp tonight, I thought he was quite photogenic<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6klNHo24QI/AAAAAAAAEsU/PHXW1GS6rY8/s1600-h/tanzanai+354+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6klNHo24QI/AAAAAAAAEsU/PHXW1GS6rY8/s400/tanzanai+354+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Rainbow over TDA camp!Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-22178392131916230982010-03-23T00:06:00.000+01:002010-03-23T00:06:08.481+01:00DODOMA????????Guys, here is a good quiz question, everybody knows of course that the capital city of Australia is Canberra and that Canada's is Ottawa, but who can name me the capital of Tanzania without hesitation?....<br />
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Well, no it is not Dar Es Salaam..... It is.... DODOMA..... and that's where from I am writing these lines tonight. This is probably one of the most inaccessible capital in the world. Only one paved road leads into Dodoma and that is the road going east/west between Dodoma and Dar Es Salaam. Since we came from Arusha in the north, we had to ride 450 km on a tiny dirt road to get here. Really cool actually. Dodoma is nothing spectacular in itself, it is a medium size town that has been chosen as capital simply because of its geographical situation it seems. It is exactly in the middle of Tanzania. But a few kilometers before entering the capital we were still struggling on thick sand and gravel. <br />
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What a ride! The last four days have been the most spectacular of the tour as far as I am concerned. It has been really hard, particularly yesterday. Even mountain bikers took a toll. It was the most technical ride we did up to now and I believe will do in the entire tour. Yesterday's 100 km ride was a "toughie". It had everything of a hard day, plenty of climbing, with steep, and difficult road surface. Some of the downhills were so technical, that many had to walk sections of them. When the dirt road was not made of rolling stones and deep holes, it was thick sand... It did not stop, every meter of that 100 K was a hard push. it took me 8 hours to ride this stage and many riders only made it to camp as the night was falling. We had started at 7h30 AM, so you can imagine... Even our trucks suffered, the dinner truck bike rack broke and it resulted in the truck only making it to camp very late. So we all tried to kill time hiding under trees waiting in our filthy cycling outfits for our luggage and tents to arrive.<br />
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The mood was nevertheless very good as everybody agreed that the efforts were definitely worth it. We all felt privileged to ride through such amazing countryside. The funny thing is, this is a national road leading straight to the capital, and yet there is hardly any traffic on it. It was so pleasant to ride on it, as I rode some of it on my own, I could hear all the sounds coming from the forest, so many birds, and the distant scream of the monkeys covered by the frogs calling for mates. At some point this road was so bad that it was easier to ride in the bush using the animal paths. But it was fun and I will sign for more any time!<br />
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Tanzania is actually the country where we cover the most distance on unpaved roads, about 600 km in total but it shrinking every year as more pavement is being laid. I have never seen so many baobab trees in my life, Tanzania is big time baobab country. They are amazing trees defying time. Some of them can live up to 3000 years... <br />
They make the landscape of central Tanzania. Here you can see baobab trees in the middle of a sunflower field, something quite unique. I am so impressed by Tanzania, and by its people. They are so nice. We are getting so many "jumbo" everywhere we go. The kids have also been a pleasant surprise. In the remote areas we have traversed, it seems that all children are going to school. We saw them walking on the road dressed in clean uniforms on their way to school. Tanzanian children are a bit shy and wait for you to greed them with a loud "Jumbo" and then they immediately shout back "Jumbo Jumbo" and laugh. We also hear " Mzungu Mzungu" from the younger ones who are so exited to see some white persons on bicycles in this remote region.<br />
Camp last night was really funny. It felt a bit like Ethiopia as we were invaded by kids. But it was very different. No need to put up defensive ropes around camp, these children were well behaved, fairly shy and seemed to be amazed by the Tour D'Afrique caravane... I would be too it TDA had to pull into my backyard one day...<br />
We are on a 7 days non stop stage here, so 3 more to go before we reach Iringa. There we will be back on tar and will enjoy a rest day. We are definitely gonna need it. This long unpaved stretch is claiming its toll on old bodies like mine. I have pains in my back, in my arms and even my knees are sore. These long days on technical dirt roads are so demanding. You work plenty more than on a normal ride. I even have a small saddle sore, can you believe it, after 6000 km you can still get some from the hammering of the corrugated surface. I have organised for a DHL parcel to reach me in Iringa. It is coming from South Africa. I am getting extra tubes and a new pair of gloves. mine are so destroyed, they look like rags hanging on my forearms. I am also getting new padding for the inside of my helmet, same problem as my gloves. <br />
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Anyway after such a hard day, it was a perfect opportunity for the members of the locker 9 brotherhood to hold a special meeting.... Yes, on the initiative of Gabriele, we have created this brotherhood were some of the older riders who deserve a bit of luxury are stuffing locker 9 in the dinner truck with all kind of pleasurable goods. There is plenty of wine, spirit, chocolate and cigars in locker 9.... By the way, other TDA riders, if you are reading this, don't get any funny ideas... Locker 9 is well protected and the key holder is Josh... So you will have to kill him first... and given the fair size of Jos.. I would advise you to get your own locker.... Of course each rider only has one locker so I cannot go into details and tell you how we got locker 9... But this brotherhood has added a new dimension to this tour. Since we passed the equator, we have upgraded ourselves to business class. Last night, we enjoyed Cuban cigars, South African red wine and port with dark chocolate under a magnificent African sky... And this is just the beginning, more international supplies are on their way, thanks to wives and new sectional riders joining soon...<br />
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We had our first brotherhood evening in Kenya when Maria Pia, Gabriele's girl friend freshly arrived from Switzerland brought some magnificent Italian salami and two types of well aged Swiss cheeses. They went down like mother's milk with Chilean wine... Oh, and we also have a proper set of wine glass in locker 9, yeah there is no way we will drink wine out of coffee mugs!...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fwsMM_1pI/AAAAAAAAEmE/duAeOFxunlc/s1600-h/tanzanai+201+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fwsMM_1pI/AAAAAAAAEmE/duAeOFxunlc/s400/tanzanai+201+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div>The road was so rough that our dinner truck broke down. So the TDA staff went for plan B, they got the cooking equipment from it and brought them to camp on the Landcruiser. Now, that's what I call an "open kitchen"...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fw4ZBmeuI/AAAAAAAAEmM/Pkrnr23MrUk/s1600-h/tanzanai+198+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fw4ZBmeuI/AAAAAAAAEmM/Pkrnr23MrUk/s400/tanzanai+198+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div>The dirt road was so bad that we used some of the small paths in the bush going more or less in the same direction as the "road"... It was a lot of fun and a much smoother ride, excpet for the fact that Jos and I got lost.. but let's not talk about that....<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fxGUfRM7I/AAAAAAAAEmU/YFCnXaOkVH8/s1600-h/tanzanai+186+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fxGUfRM7I/AAAAAAAAEmU/YFCnXaOkVH8/s400/tanzanai+186+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fxPnpi69I/AAAAAAAAEmc/JaVLvApEJyc/s1600-h/tanzanai+187+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fxPnpi69I/AAAAAAAAEmc/JaVLvApEJyc/s400/tanzanai+187+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div>The last two days have taken us through some of the most scenic places I have ever riden through and all that on a small quiet dirt national road going straight into the heart of Tanzania... Unbelievable.....<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fxcQ-jZXI/AAAAAAAAEmk/mgF_kYdnjiQ/s1600-h/tanzanai+181+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fxcQ-jZXI/AAAAAAAAEmk/mgF_kYdnjiQ/s400/tanzanai+181+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Sunflowers and baobabs, side by side, these have been the scenes of the last two days of riding.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fxnQHJRPI/AAAAAAAAEms/nx1mLyK0pzw/s1600-h/tanzanai+178+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fxnQHJRPI/AAAAAAAAEms/nx1mLyK0pzw/s400/tanzanai+178+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div>The dirts road has been very hard to ride on with plenty of thick sand or lose rocks for the last 350 km, but it has blessed us with such amazing landscapes that we did not mind the physical challenge.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fxz5F8H9I/AAAAAAAAEm0/kV2Lz2R3o6Y/s1600-h/tanzanai+176+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fxz5F8H9I/AAAAAAAAEm0/kV2Lz2R3o6Y/s400/tanzanai+176+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div>The last time, I held my bike up in the air like that was in front of the pyramids in Cairo, today we are passing the 6000 kilometers mark and I therefore choose this baobab to mark the physical half way point in this crazy race.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fx_6OCI0I/AAAAAAAAEm8/ilMPOamxxso/s1600-h/tanzanai+175+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fx_6OCI0I/AAAAAAAAEm8/ilMPOamxxso/s400/tanzanai+175+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Endless undisturbed Tanzanian bush. We are so privileged to ride through this....<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fyLVJYfuI/AAAAAAAAEnE/v4LMm9KVddk/s1600-h/tanzanai+171+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fyLVJYfuI/AAAAAAAAEnE/v4LMm9KVddk/s400/tanzanai+171+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Not the easiest road surface to ride through, but plenty of fun for the mountain bikers<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fyXN11byI/AAAAAAAAEnM/ogrLMKdD_qY/s1600-h/tanzanai+168+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fyXN11byI/AAAAAAAAEnM/ogrLMKdD_qY/s400/tanzanai+168+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Make no mistake, even if these guys are posing for my camera and are dressed in western clothes, these are real bow hunters on their way to kill some small antilope for their lunch. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fykNR_WbI/AAAAAAAAEnU/z2ZIOeH6-8E/s1600-h/tanzanai+202+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fykNR_WbI/AAAAAAAAEnU/z2ZIOeH6-8E/s400/tanzanai+202+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Caroline, the TDA nurse giving a hand at the open bush kitchen in front of the amused local kids.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fywKsG11I/AAAAAAAAEnc/IqwKk1mGJ10/s1600-h/tanzanai+239+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fywKsG11I/AAAAAAAAEnc/IqwKk1mGJ10/s400/tanzanai+239+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Can you still see my tent, it is behind the 50 new friends, I have just made...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fy9JK3vkI/AAAAAAAAEnk/saGyqkBF3Qc/s1600-h/tanzanai+236+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fy9JK3vkI/AAAAAAAAEnk/saGyqkBF3Qc/s400/tanzanai+236+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div>I made the mistake to give 3 candies to 3 little boys who sat next to me while I was putting up my tent... He he... within minutes the word was out that a "Mzungu" was handing out candies... and this is the result....<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fzN6VVoeI/AAAAAAAAEns/ZTF58xxUc_Y/s1600-h/tanzanai+234+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fzN6VVoeI/AAAAAAAAEns/ZTF58xxUc_Y/s400/tanzanai+234+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Sunhil greasing his chain after this dusty stage<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fzaubNoII/AAAAAAAAEn0/Tc9r25f4ELc/s1600-h/tanzanai+233+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fzaubNoII/AAAAAAAAEn0/Tc9r25f4ELc/s400/tanzanai+233+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Frans and Tim assesing the damage on their mean machines after this very tough day<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fzlnx7k-I/AAAAAAAAEn8/b7t1qEIu8ZY/s1600-h/tanzanai+232+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fzlnx7k-I/AAAAAAAAEn8/b7t1qEIu8ZY/s400/tanzanai+232+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="225" /></a></div>At TDA, one thing you learn quickly is to wash yourself on one 750 ml water bottle, here Tony even seems to enjoy it....<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fzxVbvYFI/AAAAAAAAEoE/VRhIsIdKAJY/s1600-h/tanzanai+228+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6fzxVbvYFI/AAAAAAAAEoE/VRhIsIdKAJY/s400/tanzanai+228+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div>In Africa, the number one method of communication still is radio, especially in such remote areas. As you can see, these radios are not the most modern, neither are they in best shape, but they do the job...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f0DSGDCvI/AAAAAAAAEoM/n_GI_to12Nc/s1600-h/tanzanai+226+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f0DSGDCvI/AAAAAAAAEoM/n_GI_to12Nc/s400/tanzanai+226+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div>Lynn about to put her tent up with a ready crowd of local facinated children who have probably never seen so many Mzungus in one load...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f0QjydlDI/AAAAAAAAEoU/H7uHkSHisbQ/s1600-h/tanzanai+222+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f0QjydlDI/AAAAAAAAEoU/H7uHkSHisbQ/s400/tanzanai+222+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div>These kids are so cute, they are well behaved and took turns in looking at their own picture on my camera instead of pushing each other and fighting for grabbing it like in Ethiopia.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f0dGtpNpI/AAAAAAAAEoc/B4i0DdhN1z4/s1600-h/tanzanai+219+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f0dGtpNpI/AAAAAAAAEoc/B4i0DdhN1z4/s400/tanzanai+219+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> In Africa when you make a self portrait, you can be sure there are a few kids joining in as well.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f0ntHCDxI/AAAAAAAAEok/Ks6KR9gLlBQ/s1600-h/tanzanai+217+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f0ntHCDxI/AAAAAAAAEok/Ks6KR9gLlBQ/s400/tanzanai+217+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The cattle looks good here, you can see that there is plenty of delicious grass available<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f036W_kgI/AAAAAAAAEos/zCuhA8NeFow/s1600-h/tanzanai+203+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f036W_kgI/AAAAAAAAEos/zCuhA8NeFow/s400/tanzanai+203+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div>TDA riders recovering under the shade of an umbrella tree after one of the toughest stage of the tour. The dinner truck has broken down on the road. All our luggage and tents are in it, so patience is the best medicene, even if you are tired, smelly and sweaty...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f1HnVDOXI/AAAAAAAAEo0/v8ds_voqRbs/s1600-h/tanzanai+243+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f1HnVDOXI/AAAAAAAAEo0/v8ds_voqRbs/s400/tanzanai+243+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div>Since we have crossed the eqautor, we have started this "brotherhood of locker 9". We have upgraded ourselves to VIP level and are now enjoying cigars, red wine, port, chocolate and even biltong after dinner....<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f1XiNcNAI/AAAAAAAAEo8/F1PSkB7Mqlw/s1600-h/tanzanai+274+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f1XiNcNAI/AAAAAAAAEo8/F1PSkB7Mqlw/s400/tanzanai+274+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div>After 4 hard days of riding over 450 km on dirt roads, we finaly reached the capital city of Tanzania..... DODOMA<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f1jQmCzyI/AAAAAAAAEpE/4bOLC0cVQn0/s1600-h/tanzanai+272+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f1jQmCzyI/AAAAAAAAEpE/4bOLC0cVQn0/s400/tanzanai+272+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> School boys in their uniform<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f1wfC9fOI/AAAAAAAAEpM/Rfy_HtDchGo/s1600-h/tanzanai+271+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f1wfC9fOI/AAAAAAAAEpM/Rfy_HtDchGo/s400/tanzanai+271+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="225" /></a></div> Charcoal seller <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f1-ZSwnFI/AAAAAAAAEpU/ucBt5Fwnn5s/s1600-h/tanzanai+270+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f1-ZSwnFI/AAAAAAAAEpU/ucBt5Fwnn5s/s400/tanzanai+270+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div>Charcaol is big business here. The locals produce it in their backyard and sell it along the road in these giant bags<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f2Zd-S6BI/AAAAAAAAEpk/lyBc5Jb5Sms/s1600-h/tanzanai+269+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f2Zd-S6BI/AAAAAAAAEpk/lyBc5Jb5Sms/s400/tanzanai+269+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Tanzanians are very friendly, they always greet us as we pass them on the road and smile plenty<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f2lA8VVII/AAAAAAAAEps/A7uc449b390/s1600-h/tanzanai+261+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f2lA8VVII/AAAAAAAAEps/A7uc449b390/s400/tanzanai+261+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Sun flower is widely planted here for producing cooking oil<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f2wVVu02I/AAAAAAAAEp0/4rb2uyQEyPo/s1600-h/tanzanai+256+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f2wVVu02I/AAAAAAAAEp0/4rb2uyQEyPo/s400/tanzanai+256+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> TDA rider passing on the dirt road with a typical Tanzanian early morning skyline<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f29Z8DKpI/AAAAAAAAEp8/0SXveRF4P_4/s1600-h/tanzanai+255+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f29Z8DKpI/AAAAAAAAEp8/0SXveRF4P_4/s400/tanzanai+255+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="225" /></a></div> This region has plenty of wetlands adding to the beauty of the landscapes.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f3Jk-B1lI/AAAAAAAAEqE/gAGZXpMHtSE/s1600-h/tanzanai+252+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f3Jk-B1lI/AAAAAAAAEqE/gAGZXpMHtSE/s400/tanzanai+252+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> A very enjoyable flat section before some more climbing...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f3V5Z4VSI/AAAAAAAAEqM/slM1ydpxzvA/s1600-h/tanzanai+246+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f3V5Z4VSI/AAAAAAAAEqM/slM1ydpxzvA/s400/tanzanai+246+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Gisi, the female tour leader is also 4 th overall<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f3i_IDObI/AAAAAAAAEqU/dqWDD5R8j3U/s1600-h/tanzanai+275+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6f3i_IDObI/AAAAAAAAEqU/dqWDD5R8j3U/s400/tanzanai+275+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div>I am not sure if such a sign would be allowed anywhere in Europe but here at least the message is loud and clear.... (picture is from the street in Dodoma)Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8047744657668287769.post-78799900008364546282010-03-20T22:09:00.000+01:002010-03-20T22:09:35.805+01:00BACK ON THE BICYCLEWe are back on the saddle after enjoying a 3 day break. It did miracle to our tired bodies and everybody was in a good mood yesterday as we left Arusha.<br />
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Tour D'Afrique is the longest stage race in the world with 96 stages and total of 12 000 kilometers. Today we completed stage 50... So now it really feels like we have passed the half way...<br />
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We are now heading towards central Tanzania, a region completely untapped by tourism. My guide book on Tanzania did not even have one line about this region. Only one narrow dirt road crosses it and that's it... It is incredible here. There is hardly any traffic on this small dirt road and yet it is the main connection going across central Tanzania. Well, things will change as we saw today, the Chinese (yes, them again...) are starting to build a large paved road heading south. But for now we could still enjoy this amazingly beautiful dirt road that makes its way between volcano formations and indigenous forest. We climbed today, plenty and tonight we are yet again back at an altitude of 1700 meters. Good, because last night was so hot, we all struggled to sleep.<br />
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If you ask me, today was the most beautiful day of the tour so far. It was just perfect. The dirt road was rough and the 120 km distance made it challenging. We also had 2 big climbs, but what an amazing countryside here! This region is the best kept secret in Tanzania. It is really incredible. They have plenty of indigenous forest left here, a rare thing in this continent, they also have rivers and lakes and such a diversity of vegetation, you are just mind blown. I took over 300 pictures today, just to give you an idea...<br />
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The people were also very nice. Most of them salute us with the famous "Jumbo" (hello in Swahili) and even the kids are mostly well behaved. There are always a few exceptions, we are in a very poor and rural area, so some are a bit aggressive, but nothing to compare to Ethiopia. Many ask for money, but that, we are used to, it is the same all over Africa. The kids call us the "Muzungus", (white man in Swahili) so as we pass them we hear them screaming "hei mzungu, mzungu.... gimme money") <br />
It is actually quite funny as they are more exited to see a white person passing on this very remote and quiet dirt road than serious about begging. <br />
I really like Tanzania, it is a country where you feel good. The climate is also great here. The evening at camp are nice, with a temperature around 25 degrees. <br />
We are going to be on this small dirt road for 5 more days still and the terrain will be similar, hilly and scenic. I am enjoying this very much and advise people who are thinking of doing a section of TDA to do this one, especially if they like off road riding.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U0xHvvGUI/AAAAAAAAEi8/1oTf_g6cjQU/s1600-h/tanzanai+072+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U0xHvvGUI/AAAAAAAAEi8/1oTf_g6cjQU/s400/tanzanai+072+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> They use bicycles for delivering anything here<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U06G8LLrI/AAAAAAAAEjE/dKDZDxcz1IM/s1600-h/tanzanai+062+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U06G8LLrI/AAAAAAAAEjE/dKDZDxcz1IM/s400/tanzanai+062+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Jos fixing yet another flat<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U1FQghZ-I/AAAAAAAAEjM/aUsoTZ2lSUw/s1600-h/tanzanai+059+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U1FQghZ-I/AAAAAAAAEjM/aUsoTZ2lSUw/s400/tanzanai+059+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Race director, Paul<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U1QhazHKI/AAAAAAAAEjU/DdJWQvAj3cs/s1600-h/tanzanai+048+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U1QhazHKI/AAAAAAAAEjU/DdJWQvAj3cs/s400/tanzanai+048+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Tour leader Frans (Holland). He won this mando stage today as well.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U1aw5b-5I/AAAAAAAAEjc/TEMhfz_FTk4/s1600-h/tanzanai+045+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U1aw5b-5I/AAAAAAAAEjc/TEMhfz_FTk4/s400/tanzanai+045+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The locals are very exited and supportive as we pass along their small villages.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U1lcn1kDI/AAAAAAAAEjk/I4C2fYBYL-8/s1600-h/tanzanai+043+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U1lcn1kDI/AAAAAAAAEjk/I4C2fYBYL-8/s400/tanzanai+043+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> This is volcano territory<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U1vWrtGkI/AAAAAAAAEjs/4kjtwdp7vo8/s1600-h/tanzanai+028+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U1vWrtGkI/AAAAAAAAEjs/4kjtwdp7vo8/s400/tanzanai+028+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Next to our camp last night<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U155etNYI/AAAAAAAAEj0/NwYmsPbWQFw/s1600-h/tanzanai+026+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U155etNYI/AAAAAAAAEj0/NwYmsPbWQFw/s400/tanzanai+026+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Camp yesterday<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U2EYbkmgI/AAAAAAAAEj8/g5LUIwi96yA/s1600-h/tanzanai+021+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U2EYbkmgI/AAAAAAAAEj8/g5LUIwi96yA/s400/tanzanai+021+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Masai child<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U2QaHHiII/AAAAAAAAEkE/TKTquacVvE0/s1600-h/tanzanai+075+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U2QaHHiII/AAAAAAAAEkE/TKTquacVvE0/s400/tanzanai+075+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Hardy sharing his shots with the locals<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U2awwod3I/AAAAAAAAEkM/uZbQyhwgdVI/s1600-h/tanzanai+163+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U2awwod3I/AAAAAAAAEkM/uZbQyhwgdVI/s400/tanzanai+163+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> This game is played accross Africa and is the African version of chess<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U2mhHhr2I/AAAAAAAAEkU/q2RN2ixmY44/s1600-h/tanzanai+160+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U2mhHhr2I/AAAAAAAAEkU/q2RN2ixmY44/s400/tanzanai+160+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> This young guy was doing his home work along the road. He was studing physics. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U2yLtT3BI/AAAAAAAAEkc/S4zGvvrbQzE/s1600-h/tanzanai+155+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U2yLtT3BI/AAAAAAAAEkc/S4zGvvrbQzE/s400/tanzanai+155+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Beautiful indigenous trees all along our path today<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U29oBdPVI/AAAAAAAAEkk/DcKwifbpdag/s1600-h/tanzanai+153+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U29oBdPVI/AAAAAAAAEkk/DcKwifbpdag/s400/tanzanai+153+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> The hills we went through were steep but amazingly beautiful. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U3N6NmHFI/AAAAAAAAEks/KQxxNvUd-hc/s1600-h/tanzanai+143+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U3N6NmHFI/AAAAAAAAEks/KQxxNvUd-hc/s400/tanzanai+143+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> A clever way to park a fully loaded bike...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U3X8CfrVI/AAAAAAAAEk0/shYQ32KfiY4/s1600-h/tanzanai+125+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U3X8CfrVI/AAAAAAAAEk0/shYQ32KfiY4/s400/tanzanai+125+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U3gO4VhbI/AAAAAAAAEk8/LA9zXlBlRbY/s1600-h/tanzanai+129+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U3gO4VhbI/AAAAAAAAEk8/LA9zXlBlRbY/s400/tanzanai+129+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U3nPs3JFI/AAAAAAAAElE/XV2kzXebtSM/s1600-h/tanzanai+142+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U3nPs3JFI/AAAAAAAAElE/XV2kzXebtSM/s400/tanzanai+142+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> This is the main and only road going through central Tanzania. We loved it.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U3zAlFW7I/AAAAAAAAElM/_bN-slmWoB0/s1600-h/tanzanai+119+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U3zAlFW7I/AAAAAAAAElM/_bN-slmWoB0/s400/tanzanai+119+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Beautiful Tanzania<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U3-A4zBBI/AAAAAAAAElU/oZvmIMXzZWE/s1600-h/tanzanai+117+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U3-A4zBBI/AAAAAAAAElU/oZvmIMXzZWE/s400/tanzanai+117+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Where ever I stop, my bike is always an attraction<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U4JpRkNFI/AAAAAAAAElc/cpVfotucDXk/s1600-h/tanzanai+114+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U4JpRkNFI/AAAAAAAAElc/cpVfotucDXk/s400/tanzanai+114+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="225" /></a></div> The local fish they catch in the lake<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U4dkNW1UI/AAAAAAAAElk/9cxbIM4wgjc/s1600-h/tanzanai+110+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U4dkNW1UI/AAAAAAAAElk/9cxbIM4wgjc/s400/tanzanai+110+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Fishermen at work<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U4oJ966oI/AAAAAAAAEls/e0BUX9saXdU/s1600-h/tanzanai+102+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U4oJ966oI/AAAAAAAAEls/e0BUX9saXdU/s400/tanzanai+102+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a></div> Big trees provided us plenty of shade along our way today<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U4zLsqsII/AAAAAAAAEl0/FJAeczy09v8/s1600-h/tanzanai+094+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U4zLsqsII/AAAAAAAAEl0/FJAeczy09v8/s400/tanzanai+094+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="225" /></a></div> This cameleon was crossing the road. We stopped next to it and<br />
he decided to climb on the bike and then made it all the way to<br />
the top of my helmet...<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U5G7AqapI/AAAAAAAAEl8/zF1uc0D-3ZY/s1600-h/tanzanai+166+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YO388LWVOqs/S6U5G7AqapI/AAAAAAAAEl8/zF1uc0D-3ZY/s400/tanzanai+166+(Medium).jpg" vt="true" width="400" /></a><br />
The finish line of this tough but beautiful 120 km stage, all on dirt with 1250 meter of climbing.Jaana Conielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04885547653657561545noreply@blogger.com1